Page 33 - 2016 AMA Spring

ledges to reach the top of Meall Bheag. Return the entire route to Bealach Mor. From here the summit of Caisteal Liath can be easily reached in a few minutes.
The Coire Lagan Round – Grade 3/ Diff **** – Isle of Skye
One of the finest mountaineering days in the UK, the Coire Laggan Round offers continuous interest and superb scrambling over one of the best sections of the Cuillin Ridge. It involves a wide variety of terrain and requires a broad skill-set to complete safely – from abseiling to highly exposed arete climbing. However all of the most difficult pitches can be by-passed to make this an easier, but no less worthwhile route.
The route – From the top of The Great Stone Shoot, climb the short South-East Ridge of Sgurr Alasdair to the summit. Reverse this back to top of the Shoot and climb a steep wall to gain the South Ridge of Sgurr Thearlaich. Descending the North Ridge brings you to the complicated descent into the Bealach MhicCoinnich. The most natural line down the ridge brings you to an abseil, but this is avoidable via a Moderate- graded by-pass on the western side of the ridge. From the Bealach take the superb Collie’s Ledge, and double-back onto the second Munro summit of the day. Descend the north ridge of Sgurr MhicCoinnich quite easily, and again you are faced with two options. An Stac Direct can be avoided via scree and slabby ground to the left, but tackling it head-on is one of the highlights of the Round. Steep Moderate climbing on good holds brings you to the view of the finale - the Inaccessible Pinnacle. This can be easily avoided if necessary. Climb the extremely exposed East Ridge for the climax of the whole Round. A 20m abseil from a chain at the top takes you off the “In-Pinn” onto easy ground. Descend via the West Ridge of Sgurr Dearg back to Glen Brittle.
Allt Moin’ a’ Chriathair (Grade 2/3) Lochcarron
Gorge scrambling is quite a strange discipline - sometimes more akin to caving than mountaineering. Often almost every hold you use will be wet, slimy, sloping or loose, and you may have to pull on roots and vegetation to pass obstacles. These are all things that would usually denote a poor quality route, yet with gorge scrambling they are part of the appeal. This route is a lengthy outing that features both enclosed gorges and open scrambling up mountain waterfalls. It is a very wet outing even during a dry spell and should avoided after heavy rain. Whilst easily escapable in several places, tackling it as directly as possible will ensure a challenging trip and a test of your sure-footedness. Take a midgie net and prepare to get a thorough soaking.
The route – the route begins as an attractive stream enclosed by trees. The first cascade is soon reached – an easy-angled fall which
requires delicate moves to climb. At the top of the fall comes an easy section followed by a number of small cascades. All of these are probably climbable at varying degrees of difficulty but at least two have to be avoided by traversing above and around. Another long easy section follows, but there are still many deep pools that have to be carefully traversed around. A more pronounced gorge comes next. Enter this via a careful traverse on the left to reach a sloping shelf, and then cross the stream to another ledge. Two more falls follow before the gorge opens out and the route becomes far more open. A large cascade coming in from the left signals the start of more sustained scrambling – climb this via a wall on the right and continue up a rib to the top of the fall. A section of flat slabs runs along the stream above this and it is a short walk to two more big falls, again climbed via their right sides. Further easy scrambling leads to Loch Moin’ a’ Chriathair.
Raeburn’s Buttress, Sgorr Ruadh (Grade 3/Difficult) – Lochcarron
A route belonging to a different era. The mountain areas in this part of the west coast are defined by soaring buttresses of sandstone and quartzite, many of which are classic winter climbs but less frequently climbed in summer. Raeburn’s Buttress has retained an exploratory atmosphere as it is
Allt Moin' a'Chriathair
often ignored in favour of more well-known climbs on other nearby mountains. It forms an impressive line that dominates the view throughout Coire Lair, and promises a memorable adventure on a face that you’ll almost certainly have to yourself.
The route – If the lower wall of the buttress is climbed the route overall gets a grade of Difficult, but the climbing at this grade is short-lived and the rest is scrambling (the lower wall can be by-passed via a gully to the left to make the route Grade 3 overall). Start at the left-hand side of the steep wall. The first few moves to get established on this pitch are the hardest on the entire route, and it can be hard to find the best line. Climb steeply for 20m to a terrace below another steep section. A ramp trending left takes you to the top of
Raeburn’s Buttress
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