Page 34 - 2016 AMA Spring

this, and the route now becomes easier. However loose holds and vegetation are now an issue so don’t let your guard down. A steepening leads to a section of walking along a grassy ridge, after which you are confronted by a number of rocky towers. The line of least resistance is fairly obvious throughout, but be prepared to occasion- ally pull on heather. The final tower is the most intimidating of the bunch and makes an exciting finale before easy ground leads towards the summit of Sgorr Ruadh.
Pygmy Ridge (Moderate) – Cairngorm
Scrambles in the Cairngorms are limited, but those that do exist are usually on superb granite and offer a different style of scrambling to most routes in the Western Highlands. Pygmy Ridge is one of the best easy mountaineering routes in the area and proves memorable despite its short length. For a longer outing, combine it with After- thought Arete on Stag Rocks which is of similar quality and difficulty.
The route – The first few metres of the ridge are the steepest on the route and this would usually be climbed as a 25m roped pitch. Climb straight up the middle of the first wall on excellent granite holds, or further right for a slightly more difficult start. After a few metres, trend left and continue up the wall to a comfortable stance. Above this taking a line on the left is slightly easier and the ridge starts to level out. Be careful of loose blocks here especially in the first few months after the winter. Two very small pinnacles come next before a tower that is best climbed from the right, then the route is over all too soon.
North Buttress (Stob Dearg) - Aonach Eagach enchainment (Moderate) Glencoe
The link-up of two great Glencoe classics. Taken individually, either of these routes are a worthy objective for a full day. Climbing them back-to-back in one go however is a challenge only for extremely fit and
Aonach Eagach
proficient scramblers, with a combined ascent of almost 2000m. You should be confident soloing Moderate-graded ground to attempt this enchainment. Driving between Stob Dearg and the start of the Aonach Eagach avoids a lengthy section of walking.
The routes
North Buttress (Moderate), Stob Dearg
On the climber’s track beneath the cliffs of Stob Dearg, aim for two prominent boulders on the skyline. From here, start heading up the broad lower section of North Buttress towards an obvious line of chimneys above. The chimneys are all steep and many teams will decide to climb these in roped pitches. However in general the holds are very positive and the route finding is quite easy. Near the top of the line of chimneys, take an obvious break out right to easier ground that leads to the summit of Stob Dearg. Descend down Coire na Tulaich to the car and drive to the car park beneath Am Bodach for the start of the Aonach Eagach.
Aonach Eagach (Grade 2)
A ridge scramble too long and complex to describe in detail. It is important to state that there is no safe descent off the ridge after Am Bodach until you reach Sgurr nam Fiannaidh, and in no circumstances should this be attempted. A a steep down-climb from Am Bodach’s summit proves an abrupt start to the scrambling. An easy section leads to a chimney which signals the start of the hardest scrambling. The ‘Crazy Pinnacles’ are narrow with gaping exposure, but don’t attempt to outflank them by paths on either side - instead climb them directly. The best line is polished so therefore quite obvious. There are several down-climbs on the ridge which can be intimidating but they are never hard. Once on Sgurr nam Fiannaidh do not descend the Clachaig Gully path to the glen. It is loose and unstable and has been the scene of numerous casualties. Instead, descend easily to the north west and find the well used Pap of Glencoe path. If you can, hitch a lift along the road back to the base of Am Bodach, or ‘enjoy’ a walk of several miles back to your car.
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