Page 22 - 2010 AMA Spring

ed all the way through to the Black Mountains at the other end. Every so often a large shock of ice would fall down the steep sides crashing into the rocks below, ever so slightly unnerving in the mid- dle of the night.
During this first trip, we had our first taste of moving at altitude, the ugly process of moving across moraine fields, walking with cram- pons on and in some cases, dealing with the altitude sickness. We were also to use this trip to practice our rope work and even got in some climbing, on both rock and ice, with LCpl Porte claiming a couple of bouldering world firsts.
Although this trip did not materialise in a peak, it did provide a good skills foundation for our subsequent attempts. Additionally, our AT instructor Dave Brown was able to point out some of the rich array of flora that was unique to the National Park where we were, especially the types of lichen.
All too soon, it was time to take the extremely wiggly bus ride back to Huaraz, with a mountain on one side and a very steep drop on the other. Every so often there was the odd landslide to negotiate, but we all arrived back in Huaraz safe and sound. The next couple of days were spent in Huaraz recuperating and blowing out a few cobwebs with the Exped drink of choice, a Pisco Sour. After finding out that altitude certainly does multiply the effects of alcohol, it was time to plan for the next trip, which had the twin objectives of Urus and Ishinca, an opportunity to put what we had learnt into practice.
The new campsite was fairly wide, with high sided, white topped mountains on either side and an enormously powerful glacier at the head. The day after our arrival we attempted our first peak. An Alpine start before dawn saw us scrabbling up a mountain path, over a moraine field and to the snowline in torch light. At the snow- line, and after a moment of relearning how to put on the crampons properly, we prepared ourselves for the next section on the glacier. Initially walking on snow and rock, not easy in crampons, gave way
to walking solely on the snow. Every so often we would pass a huge crevasse, really putting the power of the mountain compared to our ant like efforts into perspective. But none the less we car- ried on up a fairly steep pitch, described by LCpl Kirchmair as “relentless.” It was towards the top of this steep incline that the Exped recorded its highest vomit, which was savagely criticised by LCpl Kirchmair as it offended his eyes on his way past.
After this incline, we had broken the back of the ascent. It was only a relatively short distance to the top. And there we were standing on top of the World, or as close pretty well any of us had previously got. All too soon, it was over and we were on the decent back to camp for a celebratory Coca-Cola from the horribly over priced cartel of shops.
St Peter and St Pauls celebration
20 ARMY MOUNTAINEER
LCpls Cox and Porte and Cpl Lloyd on the summit of Urus