Page 24 - 2010 AMA Spring

MT BLANC – MAYBE? By Charlie Dalziel
During the first week of July when the summer Alps are at their most allur- ing, a group of 8 soldiers and offi- cers from across 1 SCOTS and 2 SCOTS, The Royal Regiment of Scotland, set out to Chamonix, the heart of Alpine moun- taineering. The initial intent of Ex NORTH- ERN HACKLE was to introduce a group of novices to summer Alpine Mountaineering with a view to climbing Mt Blanc (4808m) using the Gouter Route following a detailed acclimatisation and training programme.
Following a short transfer from Geneva air- port to Chamonix, the group arrived fresh if slightly damp, into the valley as the weath- er in Chamonix decided it had no intention of following the expeditions intended itinerary. Base camp for the week was at the French Army’s Ecole Militaire de Haute Montagne, located within easy walking dis- tance from the centre of the town. In this Phase 2 training establishment, where Suunto watches are most definitely the fashion accessories of choice, the wel- come was warm and friendly as the school
proved to be an excellent location from which to conduct our training.
The first day saw the group take the train up to the Montenvers Station on the Mer de Glace glacier which acts as a stark reminder of just how quickly the Alpine glaciers are retreating and shrinking. Having fitted har- nesses and helmets a series of ladders and ledges took us down to the glacier floor where an afternoon of basic skills training including walking with crampons, moving whilst roped up and ice axe techniques were conducted. The weather held and the day not only got us thinking about working together on a rope and how to move on ice and snow, but also helped with the all important acclimatisation process.
Daily weather updates from the local Mountain Guides Office began to paint an ugly picture; snow and winds continued up high and it became apparent that the likeli- hood of climbing on Mt Blanc was decreas- ing, never mind the likelihood of summiting. The guides, Lt Col Cath Davies and Maj
Kevin Edwards, were determined not to lose the initiative and began putting ‘Plan B’ into effect. Hopes were still held high, fingers crossed and further training undertaken.
The next outing, the ‘Traverse de Couche’ took the group along a ridge line and up to a rocky summit of 2500m on the second day. Visibility was limited to meters at some points before a change in the wind lifted the cloud, revealing the abyss below our feet. To most of the group’s relief, the vis soon closed again! For once, the restricted visi- bility helped to focus the mind on the job in hand and allow individuals climbing tech- niques to emerge, develop and improve.
The weather continued to disagree with our summit aspirations so the following day we spent an afternoon single pitch climbing in the Chamonix valley. Not content at simply get- ting to grips with mastering the correct tech- niques, a speed climbing competition ensued, with Pte Richardson pulling some impressive moves out of the bag in a unique but effective style.
22 ARMY MOUNTAINEER