Page 23 - 2010 AMA Spring

Cpl Lloyd making friends with the locals
The following day was a rest day, filled with rock climbing and cards. The next day the weather closed in, causing some uncer- tainty as to whether we would attempt our second peak. In the early afternoon, the call went out and we were on our way up to a refuge which was to become our high camp.
After a slightly cramped night, another Alpine start meant we hit the snow line as the dawn broke. After a long steady ascent we were faced with the final push to the summit, a near vertical climb of about forty metres. Although this would not have been a prob- lem at sea level, at altitude it was a little more testing. However all members of the team were up to the challenge and another peak was achieved.
Lt Hilton and Dave Brown talk tactics
Ice climbing training on Ranrapalca Glacier
In this short period of time, the majority of the Exped had gone from never having been mountaineering before to having climbed two peaks in excess of 5400 metres. The drinks when we got back to Huaraz were very well deserved.
The next couple of days presented an opportunity to eat the much anticipated guinea pig or cui to the locals. After some regrouping and getting to know the local culture a little better and in some cases very well indeed, we were briefed on our next trip to the mountains. Due to the worst weather conditions in the area for at least thirty years, the original plan was revised and our sights were firmly set on Pisco, which seemed a suitable homage to our new found fondness for the Sour drink of the same name.
Although Pisco was not as high as we had hoped, the mountain gave us the opportunity to learn some new skills. After a night at Base Camp and High Camp respectively, we spent a night on the glacier, which presented its own unique challenges of cooking and keeping warm. But after successfully negotiating these obstacles, it was another Alpine start and a race to the summit before the weather closed in.
The route to the peak was truly spectacular, winding through a crevasse field of awe inspiring proportions and jaw-dropping beau- ty. At times the teams had to move quickly over patches with little cracks in them which would soon develop into the gaping chasms seeming to go right down to the centre of the earth.
After snaking our way up the mountain we reached the summit and the weather cleared so that we could see the panorama. Looming over us was the mighty Huascaran and in the distance the mountain which inspired the Paramount Pictures logo. This was it, the culmination of several weeks hard work, going from nothing to achieving a peak of 5700 metres, it certainly was a moment to be thankful for.
As we made our way back to Base Camp, we saw the climbers crossing the moraine field as we had done a few days before. It was immensely satisfying to think that we had all accomplished what they were all hoping achieve.
The celebrations in Huaraz were huge and deservedly so, led from the front by Lt Hilton who bravely showed the way. All that remains is to say thank you to Lt Hilton for organising what really was a once in a life time trip, providing all that attended with an experi- ence that none of us had ever imagined having before. Also many thanks should go to Capt Ingold, who was MO for the expedition and made sure that we all came back in the same condition as we left. Finally a big thank you should go also go to Dave Brown the AT instructor, without his careful and diligent oversight, the Exped would not have been the tremendous success that it was.
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 21