Page 188 - DIVA_MY WORKS 1918-2022

culture

of cheese to mature under careful observation high-mountain pass in the world that
by the cheese professionals, under precise has a naval red and while lighthouse.
conditions and temperature, and after three (Other important passes further from
months, it will be sent to us in Geneva. It feels Geneva such as the Bernina or Albula
incredible to bring this gift from the Cradle passes – were covered in our previous
of Switzerland to the Swiss National Day - article on the Rhaetian railway, Diva
surface becomes regular and the road starts to what could be a more prestigious delight to No. 2/2021).
climb in a series of tight hairpin bends. The commemorate that day?
regular gradient, always around 7%, ensures And in the streets of Andermatt, right
quick altitude gain, but there are also some Two words about Andermatt in the centre of the town, who can be

harder stretches where the gradient reaches – the capital of “ten Swiss passes”. seen? A tiny devil with an angelic face,
12%. Even worse, there is a strong side wind Andermatt is situated on the other side of the playing the flute as if teasing us and the whole
for the last kilometre. Descending is easier, railway tunnel on the northern side of the town. Is this the same devil from the Scöllenen
with terrific vistas all the way down into the St. Gotthard Pass, in walking distance to the Devil bridge, looking innocent while still
Val Tremolo, but the feeling of “trembling” Schöllenen Ravine. This old mountain village awaiting his compensation for having built
on the paved surface is much stronger. The has today been turned into a luxury mountain the bridge?
granite-paved road is a perfectly preserved resort, with typical wooden houses on one side PS. It could well be said that the Gotthard,
architectural masterpiece. It is considered of the road, and the same houses mixed with which takes its name from the patron saint of
Switzerland’s longest historical road luxury multi-storeyed buildings on the other. passes, has a greater aura about it than the
monument. Andermatt is situated at the centre of the most other great Swiss alpine pass – the Simplon.
important Swiss Alpine passes – it is effectively But Simplon has its own glorious history –
Caseificio del Gottardo – Cheese of St. a capital of ten Alpine Passes. The most read about Stockalper and Napoleon, and the
Gothard. Of course, this story would not be famous of these is the Furka, with the world- Simplon Eagle symbolising the Swiss courage,
sinuously up to 2091 metres in tight coils. complete without a visit to the world renowned renowned hotel Belvedere, featured in the resistance and strength, in the next issue, along
Walking the road is challenging. After two fromagerie, Caseificio des Gottardo. Not only movie “Goldfinger”. It is also the source of the with the stories of two other historical passes:
kilometres, the first paved section begins, but is cheese yet another national Swiss symbol, River Rhone, and is near the famous Grimsel Gemmi and Grand Saint-Bernard.
the most spectacular (and hardest) section St. Gothard cheese is particularly important pass with the historical Grimsel hospice. It is
only starts after 5 kilometres, when the paved given this place’s historical significance. Of a neighbour to the very difficult Susten and (With thank to my friend and colleague Liliane
course, there are several Nufenen passes, whilst the Klausen, Brünig, Mauranne, who shared with me the travel
types of cheese produced at Splügen and Lukmanier passes are slightly adventure and the cheese-making privilege at
the Caseificio. The main four: further away. Finally, there is the Oberalp the Gotthard).
Tremola, Lucendro, Rustico pass, on the other side of Andermatt, the only
and Airolo can be found in
their boutique, as can the
very rare and much-valued
Piora.

When we visited St. Gotthard,
cheese was one of our main
purposes, as cheese also
reflects the history of this
location. After a delicious
cheese fondue in this special
place we were privileged to
take part in the full process of
cheese-making. In one day,
with the help of specialists,
we succeeded in producing
our own Gottardo cheese
to be marked with our own
stamp. We left our 4kg head

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