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Lower East Side market stalls in
New York City in the 1890s MARY
TING HYATT
BAGELSAURUS,
Cambridge, MA

It is great
to see bagels
switching from
factories back
to bakeries.
I want my
employees
to feel like
bakers—not
machine
STREET MARKET AND TING HYATT: GETTY IMAGES. BAGEL: CHLOE NOLAN. KLIEGMAN AND BERMANOFF: SASHA MASLOV/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX.
operators.

- f you visit the corner of Matt Kliegman, who boils his Before Melissa ever

I
- Kenmare and Elizabeth bagels in honey water before sold a single bagel at her
baking them in a wood-fired
now-famous shop, she made
streets in New York City
a name for herself in
oven at New York City’s Black
on a Sunday morning,
you’ll likely see a line of
like Babbo, Per Se (where
to wait a little longer and pay a
people wrapped around the Seed Bagels. People are willing New York City kitchens
block. The same goes for little more for bagels made the she made bagels for staff
the intersection of Stone old-fashioned way, he says. dinners) and Roberta’s
Street and Massachusetts That old-school process of (where she created the bread of the classic pumpernickel,
Avenue in Cambridge, MA, making bagels—when program). She spent her off for example, is boiled in
and Geary Boulevard and bakers proofed the dough, hours tasting bagels around water with malt syrup (a
Fillmore Street in San hand-rolled the rounds and the city and reading book Big Apple technique) and
Francisco. The people are boiled them before baking— after book about bagel history. tinted with brown barley
all waiting for—believe it or all but disappeared 50 years Eventually, she opened a flour (rather than with
not—bagels. Bagel making ago with the advent of modern bagel stall at a Brooklyn food modern darkening hacks
has become an art again, ingredients and machinery. market, where she tested like cocoa powder or brewed
and the best of the best ones But these days, bakers like different types of flour, coffee). She hasn’t completely
are as sought after as any Matt and his partner, Noah amounts of sugar, and starters. stuck with the past, though:
croissant-doughnut or trendy Bernamoff, and Melissa Her goal was to better the city’s To make her onion bagels,
food-truck taco. “We’ve gone Weller, co-owner of Sadelle’s most storied breakfast food she folds dehydrated onions
back to producing bagels in a in New York City, are leading a without completely changing into the dough rather than
more thoughtful way,” says bagel revival. it. Her version sprinkling them on top, where
they tend to burn. “It’s not
MATT KLIEGMAN AND NOAH BERNAMOFF that I thought, ‘I want to do
this differently,’” says Melissa.
BLACK SEED BAGELS, New York City
“I just thought, ‘I want to
make the best bagel I can
possibly make.’”
A bagel shouldn’t be massive,” Matt says. “It’s the
Mary Ting Hyatt, owner of
foundation for a sandwich; you don’t want to have to
Bagelsaurus in Cambridge,
dislocate your jaw to eat one. MA, takes a similar approach,
and manages to attract both

SEPTEMBER 2016 ● FOOD NETWORK MAGAZINE 173