Page 170 - Food Network Magazine ( PDFDrive )_Neat

On the Road

traditionalists and the 1800s. These working-class, else, and business owners
adventurous, who tend to predominantly Jewish bakers far from the city have tried
love her black-olive bagels sold thousands of small, to take advantage of this
with honey-rosemary cream dense, hard-crusted rounds by using “New York” or
cheese. Her business model, daily on the street. As bagels “Brooklyn” in their store
meanwhile, was 100 percent grew in popularity through
modern: She started her the first half of the 1900s, so Water Bagel Co., based in
Porter Square bagel café as did efforts to mass-produce
a pop-up in the back of a them: In 1954, Connecticut- the composition of New York
sandwich shop before turning based Polish baker Harry City tap water. There’s no
to Kickstarter for funding— Lender revolutionized how proof that the bagel-boiling WISE SONS
which she earned in four days. America ate bagels by freezing water has a huge effect JEWISH
DELICATESSEN,
That’s the real magic of this his hand-rolled surplus on flavor, but the shtick San Francisco
so-called bagel revolution: during the week to sell on the seems to work: The chain has
To customers, bagels are shiny weekend. By the next year, 24 outposts.
and new—even worthy of sleeves of Lender’s Bagels Evan Bloom, co-owner of There is
crowd-sourced cash; to bakers, were in grocery-store freezers San Francisco’s Jewish deli nostalgia
they’re a return to the golden for the first time. Wise Sons, took the opposite and ritual
age. “One hundred years A cross-country bagel approach: “We purposefully
ago, the process wasn’t expansion followed in the do not call our product a that’s often
considered artisanal,” Melissa 1960s, thanks in large part New York bagel, because associated
says. “It was just what bakers to California inventor Daniel everyone has an opinion with bagels,”
had to do.” Thompson’s bagel-making about those,” he says. He Evan says.
machine. These machines and and business partner Leo “For me, it was
BAGELS BACK IN THE DAY others that followed made Beckerman had to futz with Sundays with my
America’s first bagel makers mass production possible, so the recipe dozens of times
were mostly Eastern bagels spread to every part until it met their exacting grandma, eating
European immigrants who of the country. Of course, standards: chewy on the bagels and lox.
settled in New York City’s the downside was that they outside, softer in the middle, I even remember
Lower East Side in the late weren’t exactly like the with a slightly malty taste. the plates
originals. They were bigger The biggest difference she served
between bagels made in
MELISSA New York and ones produced them on.
WELLER
elsewhere might just be pride.
SADELLE’S, “New York City had a really
New York City dominant bagel culture in its production process. And
the early 1900s,” explains four-year-old Tompkins
Melissa, “but you can find Square Bagels in Manhattan,
There is good bagels in other places.” which is opening a second
The return to artisanal location soon, has had similar
a phenomenon
bagel baking has led to an cult success with its over-
of forming increased interest in bagels of the-top cream cheese menu WISE SONS BAGELS: MOLLY DECOUDREAUX. BLOOM AND BECKERMAN: ALANNA HALE. SADELLE’S BAGELS: EVAN SUNG. WELLER: MELISSA HOM.
lines to see every form—even ones that (42 options, including
what the new aren’t old-fashioned. The birthday cake and wasabi).
thing is all Bagel Store in Brooklyn, for Whether folks actually crave
about, and example, can barely keep up these crazy flavors or just
with demand for its rainbow the thrill of tasting the
now we have
bagels, dyed with food Next Big Thing is up for
a spotlight coloring. When a behind-the- debate. The bottom line
on bagels. It’s scenes video was published is that people want more
changing what earlier this year showing how bagels. “We’re choosier about
the over-saturated bagel was carbs these days,” Mary says,
how people made, demand got so huge laughing. “No one is going
that the shop had to shut to eat a bagel that’s not
want them.
down for a week to streamline worth it.”

174 FOOD NETWORK MAGAZINE ● SEPTEMBER 2016