Page 202 - The Tigris Expedition
P. 202

We Gain Control of Tigris

         had to throw aside our binoculars and turn all attention to ourselves
         and our own ship. A sudden treacherous gust of wind, helped by a
         twisting wave, unexpectedly threw us side on to the weather and
         before the sail could be adjusted or the unfortunate helmsman could
         get us back on course, all the devils in the universe seemed to
         thunder down upon us. From a course of 80° the bow danced
         around, past 0° to 340°, and within seconds all hands were on deck in
         a terrible fight to regain control of our vessel. The wind threw itself
         upon the rigging and bamboo walls with a violence not yet
         experienced on this voyage. The thick sail battered with a force that
         would lift any man off the deck, and loops and rope-ends from
         sheets, braces and leach-lines whipped left and right and struck at
         everything on board. Like savages we clung to the canvas and
         ropes, and in the mad fight that followed the wooden block that
         held the port side topping lift split asunder and the yardarm with the
         sail sagged to port. The flapping and slashing sail had to come down
         quickly before all the rigging broke. But the loops of the halyard,
         normally easy to loosen were under such pressure where they were
         wound around the bridge railing that no combination of men were
         able to unfasten it, and the canvas, flapping in fury on a slanting
         yardarm, had to remain up at the mercy of the storm. I gave thanks
         that this was our smaller sail and not the giant we had rejected.
            I stole some seconds to look for the strange structures ahead of us
          while the battle raged on deck, bridge and cabin roofs. There they
          were. But the dhow was gone and we saw it no more. The ghostly
          castles in the blue haze were much closer now and caught the first
          light of a breaking day. In one place was a huge platform resting on
          round pillars, tall and thick like towers, like a castle upside down.
          Two other formations were quite different; they really looked like
          mosques or oriental castles, filled with masts and spires, even
          houses. We did not know if they stood on reefs or shallows or were
          anchored and afloat, but the sea that ran densely white-capped
          everywhere was really wild, trying to climb the columns and
          ramparts of these solid impediments. During our desperate fight we
          could see that  we would drift clear to the south, avoiding collision,
          even if we failed to straighten out our sail and regain control of the
          steering. But these man-made obstacles were clearly quite new, for
          there was no sign of them on our chart; therefore we did not know
          what more might lurk beyond. At this time two gigantic tankers
          crossed in front of us, and a third passed along our side. Too big to
          roll like us, they split the swelling seas into white geysers that rose
          high up their bows. We had no  such geysers striking our bundles,
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