Page 262 - The Tigris Expedition
P. 262

Tigris and the Superships: the Voyage to Pakistan
          here and there in the darkness. But the illusion lasted only so'
          as the lights were at a distance. While Yuri and Gherman snarea
          the night watch a tanker passed so fast and so near t at un
         jumped from the toilet seat while Gherman waved frantically wit
          the stern lamp.
            On the third day after leaving Muscat, the good northerly wind
          died and came back as feeble gusts from E and se, slowing down our
          progress towards the cape and giving Norris a faint new hope. The
          sea had been moderately polluted since we left port, but now we
          sailed into a serious oil slick with scattered lumps. We tried to
          escape the traffic by getting on the shoreward side of the shipping
          lane, but did not know that Bahrain Radio had warned all ships in
          the area of our presence in the Gulf of Oman. Before we could avoid
          it, a large luxury liner seemed as if about to run us down when it
          unexpectedly changed course as if to give the passengers a closer
          look at a rare form of watercraft. Next a small freighter suddenly
          stopped its engine and lay drifting, as if trying to trap us, crosswise
          to our course, then started again as if in despair when it became
          apparent that we could not stop like them. Shortly afterwards, yet
          another ship turned off its course and came chasing straight for us as
          if intending to ram us, but it turned out to be a small Norwegian
          freighter, Brunette, which circled us twice, then resumed its course
          and disappeared with three blasts of its siren. A big Russian ship,
          Akademik Stechkin, came for us next and repeated the same man­
          oeuvres, as if dancing around a Christmas tree, while a loud-speaker
          shouted ‘Yuri Alexandrovitch’ and asked if we needed anything.
          We did not, and we sailed closer inshore as fast as possible, to avoid
          the beaten path.
            Fishing with rod and spoon, HP caught a big fish, he said, so big
          that it broke his line and disappeared with his favourite spoon
          before any of us could testify to the one metre length indicated by
          the fisherman. A few hours later Asbjorn dived overboard on a line
          and came up with a really large fish on his hand harpoon. It was a
          big dolphin, also known as dorado or gold-mackerel. Moreover, it
          had HP’s precious spoon in its mouth, with a piece of broken line
          trailing behind. HP had not exaggerated. Soon afterwards, ^  a six-
          foot shark came circling and headed for the big red buoy we always
          towed behind for security. The buoy was bumped left and right or
          a moment, then the shark took off.                  ,
            On the fourth day we sighted wild mountains above a -jc
          coastline on the inside, while all the ships were now °" th^°nd was
          For a moment we had escaped the traffic lane. But the w

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