Page 265 - The Tigris Expedition
P. 265

The Tigris Expedition
                     and canvas, and arms stiff from gripping the oar shafts and legs
                     weary from tumbling about as Tigris jumped the angry wakes like a
                     porpoise.
                       When morning came the lights disappeared but the ships were
                     still there; now we saw them from the moment they rose humming
                     like mosquitos on the horizon, buzzing like wasps as they came
                     nearer, until they passed us like drumming elephants.
                       Towards sunset on the fifth day the weather changed. Heavy
                     clouds rolled up over the horizon and we heard distant thunder. To
                     the west we could still see the outlines of coastal mountains briefly
                     each time they stood out against the lightning. The night had barely
                      started when a strange combination of lamps that made us think of a
                      Christmas tree floated very slowly past in front of us, crosswise to
                      our course. We marvelled and discussed what they might be, when
                      we noted some other unusual lights from a low and equally slow
                      craft following at a distance behind the first, also intending to cross
                      our course. Both vessels moved so very slowly that there would be
                      time to pass between them. And that is what Gherman and I tried to
                      do when Detlef came up on the bridge and I showed him the
                      Christmas tree. The next second Detlef realised what it was. We
     I
                      threw both tillers hard over to starboard and barely managed to
                      skim around the low stern of the second vessel, which proved to be
                      a heavily loaded, unmanned barge. As a captain of merchant ships
                      Detlef had read from the many superimposed mast lights on the
                      first boat that here was a tug towing a barge on a two hundred yard
                      cable.
                         I crawled into the main cabin to get some sleep before my own
                      night watch. I was already accustomed to lying calmly and relaxed
                       with eyes closed, even if a natural reaction would have been to sit up
                       and look out each time a ship came near. My ears registered the
                       rhythmic drumming of distant engines that slowly grew in strength
                       and then as slowly died away as ships came and passed us. Then a
                       terrified yell of warning came from the steering platform over and
                       behind my head, followed by the intense droning of a big ship’s
  l
                       pistons as it approached us dangerously fast, suddenly so near that
                       the noise chased all of us out on deck like scared mice. I barely had
                       my head out of the port-side door opening when I saw our
                       ochre-coloured sails brightly lit by something big and noisy just on
                       the opposite side of the cabin. As I rose naked to my feet with a grip
                       on a mast stay, everything seemed in chaotic movement and I felt as
                       if I were travelling at night through a city street, almost blinded by
                       the many lights from a tall black wall. A fully lit cargo ship rose out

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