Page 227 - Neglected Arabia Vol 1 (2)

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must settle, and which in the days of the Turk were settled by blood­
shed. Everything, all life, all living, depends upon these waters and
naturally there would be jealousies and covetousness in a land and
among a people where they not only have not learned to love their 1
neighbor as themselves but where they moreover do not believe in or
want that teaching. The irrigation system is a wonderful complication
of ditches and canals, some high, some low, but all of them full.
The Bataira stream was quite big and could easily have accommodated
the launch. There were many side streams and many settlements all
around. Seeing it all one is impressed with the bigness of this work
of touring which, because of the country’s physical features, must take
much time and a good deal of planning. Just before getting to the
sheikh’s settlement an attractive willow grove met our view and
near it two peculiar-looking huts of the usual big mats, heavily
covered with mud, and having a narrow opening at one end. The
guess was made that these were for seed grain, but we were wrong
for they were vaults for the dead who are later removed to “holy"
Nejef and Kerbela.
We passed by about half a mile of settlement with houses on both i
sides of the river so as to be near the source of water supply. At the
further end we found the sheikh’s establishment. He seemed fairly 1
cordial in spite of rather a sinister look which declared that he could
be le*s than cordial should he choose to be. He tuuk us into hii
summer house of reeds, with wild grass sown inside to provide a
cool, green carpet. Frogs hopped about freely. After tea and cullct '
I received permission in call on the sheikh's wile. She had been ill i
and was far from well even then. She seemed a very supem.r woman
with a keen interest in the world of things, near and far. She beg**
to ask me questions about Christ and our faith which opened the \say
for the presentation of our message. She stated that the Shiah belief
is that Christ is coming again and that He is the greatest of all God’*
messengers. When lunch time came around the sheikh came in (he lud
been in several times to see if I was enjoying myself) to escort me u>
luncheon. I bade my hostess a temporary goodbye expecting to
her again before leaving. The meal had been spread in the summer
house. There were some fifty odd dishes on the green grass, tour
five of one kind according to Arab custom, and six stalwart men to
wait on us. The sheikh sat down with us. He had told us previously
that he was suffering from stomach trouble for the past three years
but for a sick man he made way with a lot of food. That may j
account for his sickness! The lood was the best we have had in Ira^.
To our taste, the meals served in this country’ cannot be compared
with those served in the Gulf. After coffee had been served we deemed
it best to suggest our return, which proved to be wise. I had intended
to bid a more formal farewell to the hostess but could only leave i
message with the sheikh who promised to pass it. on to her. I iorgv<
to state that our three boatmen thoroughly enjoyed the feast they j
sat down to and stowed away generous portions. It is customary *
this country to serve those that bring guests exactly as the gue>u •
This need not worry one at all when entertained by some sheikh )