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how massage and reflexology relieved pain, he recognized that these disciplines could be his tools.
                     The youngster’s enthusiasm persuaded a local doctor to take the boy under his wing and thus his 55-
                     year career began. Today, over 70 years of age, he has the confidence of someone who knows his
                     business thoroughly.
                           “Men or women—it doesn’t matter,” he says. “I’ve learnt the anatomy and physiology of both
                     and know exactly where to massage more gently. I can tell immediately if someone is healthy or sick
                     from  the  state  of  their  blood  circulation.”  He  then  adds:  “Bad  blood  circulation  causes  many
                     problems  (even  toothache)  and  massage  is  effective  in  these  circumstances.  Treatment  varies;
                     tiredness can be sorted out quickly but serious conditions take longer because you have to work extra
                     carefully.” His ability to see beyond superficial symptoms is uncanny, but Pak Karto regards it as
                     normal diagnosis.
                           “Patients  usually  know  they’re  ill,”  affirms  Pak  Karto,  “But  they  often  have  no  idea  why.
                     That’s where my training comes in. I often get to the root of the trouble when other methods fail.” In
                     one memorable case, a 10-year old boy, unable to walk, was brought to the masseur. He was able to
                     untangle the child’s nerves through massage, and the boy was cured.
                           Prayer is not part of the treatment, but in his mind Pak Karto always asks God’s help before
                     every massage. While other masseurs use oils to move the hands over the patient’s body, Pak Karto
                     does  not,  and  in  fact  prefers  the  patient  to  remain  fully  clothed.  “Oil  actually  hampers  me,”  he
                     reveals, “It makes the skin too soft and slippery, and I can’t feel the body properly. Oil rarely has
                     anything to do with pain or sickness. It’s the inside that counts.”















                           Day or night, anyone arriving on Pak Karto’s doorstep will be helped. His is a large brick
                     house with concrete floors, a sign of wealth in Central Java. Despite his affluence, Pak Karto prefers
                     the simple life. The house and his black and white television are exceptions. “Family pressure was
                     mounting so eventually I caved in over the television,” he explains with an embarrassed smile.
                           “I believe that enough is OK, that’s my motto in life. With enough you are always happy.” He
                     warms to this theme: “If you’re rich, you keep wanting more and more money and spend your life
                     worrying  you’ll  lose  it.  This  is  what  breeds  unhappiness.”  For  this  reason,  and  like  all  genuine
                     massage experts, he doesn’t have a fixed charge, but operates on something akin to the Robin Hood
                     principle: the more wealthy patients subsidize the less well-off.
                           Pak Karto has a particularly hectic lifestyle because he continues to work at a local timber
                     yard and, despite earning more through massage, has no plans to give up this regular work. This
                     leaves him little time to relax; even in the evening, after he has slipped into a traditional sarong,
                     clients still turn up.
                           “It’s always the same, no sooner have I settled myself comfortably than a patient springs up
                     out of the blue,” he says, “But then I’m never really content unless I’m helping someone.”


                     Both men and women may train to become expert therapists. Women, who
               are known as Ibu pijat, tend to work mainly in people’s homes, while men are
               more likely to set up a group practice. Blind massage experts are believed to be
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