Page 168 - Christies IMportant Chinese Art Sept 26 2020 NYC

PROPERTY FROM A PRIVATE AMERICAN COLLECTION
1618
AN EMBROIDERED 'MIDNIGHT BLUE' SILK FORMAL The chaofu, or attire of state, is the most important of the ceremonial
COURT ROBE, CHAOFU costumes of the Qing court comprising: chaopao or robe of the
state, piling or projecting epaulets, hat, girdle, court necklace, and
19TH CENTURY
boots. The two-part construction of chaopao consisted of a short
The robe is worked in couched gold thread and multi-colored satin
side-fastening jacket attached to a pleated skirt, derived from Ming
stitch on the upper half with four five-clawed dragons amidst clouds
styles of court dress, and was adapted by the Manchu to incorporate
and Buddhist emblems, all above the terrestrial diagram at the waist,
features reflecting their equestrian heritage, such as the curved
the attached pleated, flared apron similarly worked and joined by a
overlapping right front, a shape derived from animal skins which was
narrow waistband decorated with confronted dragons.
added for extra covering and protection; narrow sleeves with their
55æ in. (141.6 cm.) long x 77 in. (195.5 cm.) wide lower portion replaced with ribbed silk, allowing the wearer to bend
his arm more easily when hunting; and horse-hoof cuffs, originally
$5,000-7,000 intended to protect the hands when riding in bad weather.
PROVENANCE: The current 'midnight-blue' chaopao is embroidered with four front-
In New York prior to the 1980s. facing, five-clawed dragons on the upper body and four five-clawed
dragons shown in profile on the skirt, which correspond to the
清十九世紀 石青地繡彩雲金龍紋朝服 specifications cited in Huangchao liqi tushi (Illustrated Precedents
for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court) for a first-rank or
second-rank prince.