Page 95 - Bonhams FINE CHINESE ART London November 2 2021
P. 95

Badges buzi displaying fabulous creatures,
           birds or animals were worn by the members
           of the Qing ruling elites as part of their Court
           dress. The various species, whether real or
           imaginary, signified the wearer’s rank and
           the badges were worn in pairs on the bufu
           surcoat. Accordingly, one badge was attached
           to the back of the surcoat, the other was
           made in two parts, which were respectively
           placed to either side of the opening on the
           chest. Compare with a similar silk ‘Golden
           Pheasant’ embroidered badge, 18th century
           or earlier, in the Metropolitan Museum of Art,
           New York, acc.no.1988.104.89.
           274
           AN EMBROIDERED IMPERIAL SILK
           ‘DRAGON’ ROUNDEL, BUZI
           Early 19th century
           The circular badge finely embroidered
           depicting a front-facing five-clawed dragon
           worked in couched gold and silver threads
           embracing a flaming pearl, all against a dense
           ground of vaporous clouds interspersed with
           red bats above jagged mountains emerging
           from crested waves. 28.5cm (11 1/8in) long.
           £3,000 - 5,000
           CNY27,000 - 45,000
           十九世紀早期 御製彩繡雲龍紋圓補                       273

           Provenance: Linda Wrigglesworth,
           London, 1994
           A British private collection

           來源:倫敦古董商Linda Wrigglesworth,
           1994年
           澳洲私人收藏

           Richly embroidered with a front-facing striding
           five-clawed dragon pursuing the flaming
           pearl, the present roundel would have been
           worn on a ceremonial surcoat belonging to
           a member of the Imperial family. The origin
           of Imperial surcoats gunfu appears to date
           to the Zhou dynasty (circa 1050-265BC).
           The name continued to be used throughout
           the Qing dynasty, suggesting the Emperors’
           intention of representing themselves as
           custodians of ancient China’s heritage.
           The Emperor’s surcoat was decorated with
           four or eight roundels each centred with a
           five-clawed dragon, long. The Emperor’s
           roundels positioned at the shoulders were
           also decorated with the symbols of the sun
           and the moon, two of the most important
           Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority. One of
           the first references to the garment in the early
           eighteenth century Court regulations specifies
           the wearing of the gunfu on the occasion of
           the first day of the annual sacrifices at the
           Altar of Heaven; see S.V.R.Camman, China’s
           Dragon Robes, New York, 1952, p.28. By the
           mid eighteenth century, wearing a surcoat
           over a semi-formal dragon robe jifu, was
           widespread throughout the Court. Compare
           with a similar silk ‘dragon’ embroidered   274
           roundel, early 19th century, which was sold
           at Christie’s Hong Kong, 26 November 2014,
           lot 3417.
           For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each Lot
           please refer to paragraphs 7 & 8 of the Notice to Bidders at the back of the catalogue.  FINE CHINESE ART  |  93
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