Page 186 - The Age of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent

114. Kemha kaftan with reciprocal pattern, second quarter sixteenth century
(Istanbul, Topkapi Sarayí Müzesi, 13/46)

The fabric used for this example is serenk with an overall ciprocal volutes enclosing large trefoils. The bands and tre-
pattern of bright yellow triple balls placed on a ruby-red foils, woven with gold outlined in blue, lay under scrolls
ground. The same design, fabric, and cut appear on a quilted bearing a variety of stylized flowers, including hatayi blos-
kaftan identified as belonging to Selim I. 46 Çintemani patterns soms and buds rendered in light blue, pistachio-green, and
with triple balls were extremely popular throughout the six- ruby red. The ruby-red satin field has a diaper pattern con-
teenth century and were often employed on velvet garments 47 sisting of triangles with contrasting weaves that produce a
and furnishings (see 154). The design was also employed on rich and shimmering texture. The kaftan is also padded and
printed silks, one of which appears to have been made for a quilted with vertical stitches, which enhance its three-
48
woman. The same pattern was used on ceramics and wood- dimensional surface effect.
work (see 107 and 108). The cut of the garment is similar to the serenk example de-
The date of this kaftan cannot be properly determined due scribed above. It is fastened with buttons and loops attached
to the widespread employment of the design, especially on to braids sewn to the bodice. The diagonal overlap of the
textiles. It was most likely made for one of the princes, possi- skirt is extremely well thought-out; the continuity of the pat-
bly for Selim, who was always stout, in the second quarter of tern is not interrupted when the garment is closed. This qual-
the sixteenth century. ity, which requires careful cutting and sewing, appears on all
Another kaftan dating from the same period (114) is made decorated imperial kaftans.
from a kemha decorated with wide rumi bands that create re- The pattern of the kemha recalls the reciprocal borders em-

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