Page 207 - The Age of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent

Embroidery was also applied to leather cases and con-
tainers. One of the novelty leathers employed in the sixteenth
century was sharkskin; it was used on a bookbinding (see
19), as well as a tankard 67 and a rectangular box (140). Since
all three pieces employ the same materials and techniques,
they must have been made in one workshop.
The box, which has a wooden core, contains a flat lid with
sloping sides and a narrow edge. The top of the lid and sides
of the base are decorated in the same fashion: in the center is
a large blossom surrounded by symmetrically arranged scrolls
bearing hatayi blossoms, diverse flowers, buds, and leaves,
rendered in gold with details stitched in blue, green, and red.
The sloping sides of the lid and its narrow edges display a
scroll with hatayi blossoms and buds. The main motifs are
embroidered in three layers: red and blue stitches appear at
the bottom, cream is used on the middle, and gold on the
top, with the underlayers of different colored silks appearing
as minute dots. This unusual technique renders the design in
relief, giving it a three-dimensional quality, and creates an in-
ns. Embroidered velvet portfolio, second half sixteenth century (Istanbul,
Topkapi Sarayí Müzesi, 31/168)

139. Embroidered and appliquée! velvet portfolio, second half sixteenth
century (Istanbul, Topkapi Sarayi Miizcsi, 31/1891)
these large embroideries is reflected in an undated document
that states that, when several quilt covers were ordered by
the palace, it was difficult to find women who were willing
to undertake the task, many refusing the work because the
designs were too refined and delicate. 66
Embroidery was applied to various cloth bags and cases,
some of which protected spoons (ka§ikhk), while others con-
tained money, keys, tobacco, pocket watches, documents,
and Korans (collectively called kese). One such case (138) is
made of burgundy-colored velvet embroidered with gold, sil-
ver, and blue, using zerduz, satin, and stem stitches. The de-
sign consists of large cloud bands creating symmetrical vo-
lutes, surrounded by palmettes, blossoms, and long feathery
leaves rendered in gold and silver. The cloud bands are over-
laid with trefoils and leaves executed in blue silk. The front
and back panels, as well as the lobed flap, are banded with
silver and gold strips. The case, which is thought to have
been used for a Koran, is lined with green silk.
Another case (139), made of dark-ruby-red velvet, employs
a different technique. It is decorated with a series of triple
balls executed in silver seraser and appliquéd with silver
thread. Each ball has an off-center void that is oriented to-
ward the center of the clusters. Smaller versions of the same
balls line the edge, their voids alternately facing in and out;
thin strips of silver frame the border.
This example, which is not sewn at the sides, would have
been folded in three, making an oblong portfolio about 37 by
3
73 centimeters (14V2 by 28 /4 inches). Its fairly large size sug-
gests it was planned for documents and fermans.

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