Page 119 - Edo: Art in Japan, 1615–1868
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n8       R E G U L A T I O N S  Sections of the  Laws for Military Houses defined  the  etiquette of dress  and weaponry for the  samurai.  cat. 65
                                                                                                                                Pair of sword  mountings,
            F O R  S W O R D  In  1623 commoners were prohibited from  bearing arms. In  1640 the  servants  of samurai were  restricted  wood, lacquer with makie,
            M O U N T I N G S  to carrying only short swords. In 1645 outlandish dress and conduct were prohibited, and the  standard  ray skin, and silk,
                                                                                                                                lengths of short  scabbard
                            waistcoat  (kataginu), worn over a jacket (noshime) and pleated trousers  (hakama), was prescribed  as for-  76(29 /8),
                                                                                                                                        7
                            mal wear for samurai in service. This formal  attire (kamishimo, literally "top and bottom") had  to be of  long scabbard 99.5 (39 Ys);
                                                                                                                                Hikone Castle Museum,
                            a quiet color — specifically, shades  of brown and  indigo from  the  eighteenth  century on — and  was  to  Shiga
                            bear the crest of the  clan to which  the samurai belonged.
                                   When in attendance at the imperial court and during public ceremonies, the  shogun  and the
                            daimyo wore court garments derived from  the  clothing of Heian-period nobility. The chonmage hairstyle,

                            with the hair tied back in a pigtail and the  front  of the head shaved, was made compulsory. The vermil-
                            ion scabbards that had been  all the  rage since Toyotomi Hideyoshi's time were banned. Large square
                            tsuba, or sword guards, were also banned, since it was believed they could be used  as steps for climbing
                            walls. The length of a sword's cutting edge was strictly limited. In 1683 Tokugawa Tsunatoshi prohibited
                            certain persons, including artists and musicians, from  carrying swords. Later, in  1798, the  length  of the
                            luakizashi or companion sword, was restricted. To comply with the  law, many wakizashi were cut down
                            to just a few centimeters  in length.
                                   Different  mountings were used for different  occasions, so more than  one set of mounts  might
                            be held for each blade. When  the  samurai was on horseback  and wearing armor, the long sword  (tachi)
                            was loosely suspended by cords and carried with the cutting edge down; the  sword and the mounting
                            were bound with braid on both  the hilt and the upper scabbard to avoid abrasion from  the  wearer's
                            armor. On duty in the  capital, high-ranking warriors wore a special sword mounting  (efu  dachi)  that
                            lacked braid bindings and  had  a sword guard of a particular archaic shape. When  on foot, the warrior
                            was expected to carry a pair of swords: the  shorter  shotó or wakizashi was worn at all times, indoors
                            and  out, and  the  longer daitô was carried out of doors. The longer sword would be placed on  a special
                            stand by the  entrances of buildings.
                                   The matching pair of swords, or daishô (literally "large and  small"), might be highly decorative
                            in the  provinces, but rules had  to be observed in Edo. One matched pair (cat. 65) illustrates  the lavish-
                            ness available to wealthy samurai. The lacquer of the  scabbard is embedded with polished  sections of
                            walnut  shell. The metal fittings are of colored  alloys and  solid  gold. The scabbards  had  to be lacquered
                            black with  Gotô-style fittings of a black-patinated alloy of copper (shakudô), although black-patinated
                            iron sword guards were acceptable. The pommel (kashira) at the  end of the hilt could be of black-lacquered
                            horn, although black buffalo  horn was preferable. The silk braid that bound the hilt had  to be black or
                            a subdued  color. Clan crests might be inlaid on the  sword guard of either the  ancillary kogatana (utility
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