Page 412 - Edo: Art in Japan, 1615–1868

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Kabuki costume urith target and arrows Kabuki costume with dragon, clouds,
mountains, and waves
Nineteenth century
Silk and metallic thread embroidered Nineteenth century
appliqués with ink on silk satin Silk and metallic thread embroidered
nox 131 (43'Ax 51 Vs ) appliqués, wool appliqués, silk
Tokyo National Museum and metallic thread embroidery, and
pigment on plain-weave wool
• Like most kabuki costumes, this 147x138 (57 7/8x54Vs)
ensemble incorporates a bold design. Tokyo National Museum
A large arrow-pierced target is strate-
gically placed on the back of the • This two-piece kabuki costume
three-quarter-length coat, or haori. was made from imported wool fabric 411
Two additional arrows cross over the known in Japan as goro/ukeren, from
front and extend to the lower back. the Dutch term Gro/grain. The fabric
Embroidered in silk and metallic was woven in wider pieces than
thread, the motifs were appliquéd to Japanese-made fabrics. Traditional
the garment after it was constructed. garments sewn from cloth woven in
Ink was brushed on the embroidered Japan typically have center back
white silk to enhance the depiction of seams, but this costume does not.
the feathered ends of the arrow shaft.
Stylized waves, mountains, and clouds
Both the haori and the inner robe, embellish both garments. The over-
or kitsuke, are made of soft green silk lapping stylized waves are composed
satin and are thickly padded with of appliquéd dark indigo blue wool,
silk wadding. While the kitsuke is painted light blue pigment, and
constructed like a traditional kosode, couched silk embroidery thread. The
the haori has no center-back seam more realistic waves are outlined with
and includes gussets at the side silk thread and filled with couched
seams. The unusually wide measure- gold metallic thread. Silk and metallic
ment of the silk satin, more than 62.2 embroidery thread also delineate
centimeters across the haori's back the clouds as well as the columnlike
body panel, suggests that the fabric mountains rising from the waves.
might have been woven in China. The mountains probably allude to the
mythical Isle of the Immortals, a
Three identical gold-metallic embroi-
symbol of eternal youth.
dered family crests are appliquéd to
the back of the kitsuke, one on each A large appliqué of a flying dragon
sleeve and one on the center back with bulging glass eyes and metal
seam just below the neckband. The teeth is placed across the upper back
circular crests, each composed of of the haori. The beast is elaborately
three Japanese gingerroots (rnyoga), embroidered and has patches of
identify the garment as belonging to appliquéd fabric, including red wool
Bando Mitsue, the leader of a female for the tongue. A raised embroidery
kabuki troupe that performed in the technique known as takanui was used
innermost palace, where daimyo to depict the gold nose, whiskers,
family women resided. This costume forehead, and horns of the dragon.
was worn when she performed the This costume belonged to the female
five-act historical drama A Simple kabuki actor Bando Mitsue and was
Chronicle of the Rise of Genji and Fall of used for the role of Kudo Suketsune.
Heike (Hirakana Seisuiki) for the wife It was worn during a performance
of shogun Tokugawa lenari. SST
at the Hama Detached Palace in 1870
on the occasion of an official visit
by Britain's Prince Alfred. SST