Page 200 - Important Chinese Ceramics & Works of Art, Hong Kong

PROPERTY FROM THE COLLECTION OF AN AMERICAN GENTLEMAN

3368

AN IMPERIAL BLUE-GROUND SILK GAUZE

‘DRAGON’ ROBE, MANGPAO

LATE QIANLONG/EARLY JIAQING PERIOD

The blue gauze is worked in couched gold thread and counted
stitch with the prescribed nine five-clawed dragons, two on the
front and back shown clutching flaming pearls while the others
are shown reaching for the pearl, all amidst lingzhi-shaped clouds
interspersed with ‘precious objects’ and bats. The whole is set
above a terrestrial diagram and lishui stripe separated by further
clouds, and with similar decoration repeated on the border, collar
and cuffs.
60 Ω in. (153.7 cm.) long x 97 ¿ in. (247 cm.) wide

HK$600,000-800,000 US$78,000-100,000

PROVENANCE

Linda Wrigglesworth, London, April 2005

清乾隆 / 嘉慶 藍色紗納繡彩雲金龍紋蟒袍

來源
Linda Wrigglesworth，倫敦，2005 年 4 月

This imperial mangpao (dragon robe), embroidered with floss silk
worked in counted stitch and couched gold-wrapped threads on
blue silk gauze, dates from the very end of the reign of the Qianlong
Emperor (r. 1735-1795) or early in the reign of his son, the Jiaqing
Emperor (r. 1796-1820). This summer robe is complete as designed
and its execution reflects the highest quality workmanship. The small
details such as the trails of clouds that mark the wavy lishui (standing
water) border and the animated red bats that flit among the five-
coloured clouds are particularly refined and confirm an imperial court
commission.

Blue was the official colour of the Qing dynasty and appropriate for
all ranks of nobles as well as lower-ranking members of the imperial
clan. The size of the frontal dragons at the chest and back are larger in
scale than the profile dragons on the lower skirts - a characteristic that
favours an eighteenth-century date. Although the dragons on this robe
are depicted with five claws and are related to the long dragons worn
by the emperor and his immediate family, it is likely these were actually
ranked as mang, usually depicted with only four claws. This finesse of
name and image is typical of post mid-eighteenth century court attire.
Without knowing the exact rank of its intended wearer, it is impossible
to confirm the identification of this symbol.

By John E. Vollmer

此御製藍地納紗金龍雲紋龍袍運用納繡及平金等技法，為乾隆朝晚期至
嘉慶早期製品。這件夏服形制嚴謹，繡工規整，如立水上方之錦雲紋以
及間飾於五彩雲紋之紅蝠等細部紋飾尤為精緻，可見織工之高超技藝。
由此可斷定此為宮廷御用織造處之作品。

藍色為清朝宮廷代表色，所有貴族或是低階皇室成員均可使用。此袍衣
襟及背面所繡正龍體型大於下幅所繡之行龍。此袍所繡雖為只有皇帝或
其直系親屬可用之五爪龍，但亦有可能為通常帶四爪之蟒。清十八世紀
後期宮廷服飾常見改稱蟒為龍的例子。由於龍袍和蟒袍的區別不在紋
飾，而在於身份，故此。如不知其原主身份為何，無法斷定此袍上所飾
為龍抑或蟒。

沃約翰

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