Page 62 - The Decorative Painter Spring 2014

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TEARDROPS AND DOTS
Long teardrops between petals are painted using the no. 0/0 scroller filled with thinned Light Blue Mix. Tip the point of the brush in Dark Blue Mix. Lightly place the tear- drops by painting the center teardrop and then the side ones, keeping them lower than the center teardrop. Out- line the three rounded strokes above the teardrops with thinned Dark Blue Mix. Place a teardrop above the side- rounded strokes next to the scrolls by loading the tear- drop brush with thinned Titanium White and tipped in Dark Blue Mix. Outline strokes are done with the no. 0/0 scroller and thinned Dark Blue Mix. Strokes at points are painted with the teardrop brush filled with thinned Tita- nium White and tipped in Dark Blue Mix. Place these side- by-side until you have shaded the points with teardrops. All dots are thinned Titanium White done with the stylus. Follow the Step-by-Step for placement. Allow the painting to dry completely. Spray lightly with matte finishing spray and allow to dry completely.
BORDER
With the cover in place on the round box, mark the halfway point from the lid to the base on the side of the bowl using the Stabilo pencil. The segments of the border are 2" (5.1cm) each. Copy and transfer the border design to the bowl, using a light touch. The border is painted us- ing the no. 0/0 scroller. Fill the brush with thinned Tita- nium White and tip the point into Dark Blue Mix. Start at the beginning point of the stroke and press and shape the line—pressing to make the thicker part of the stroke and releasing the pressure to make the thinner part of each strokes. The dots are done using the stylus and thinned Titanium White at each end of these strokes. The center flower part of the border is done with the medium tear- drop brush, loaded with thinned Titanium White and
tipped into the Dark Blue Mix. Start by doing the two strokes along the marked line so you have a nice balanced teardrop, then do the up-and-down teardrops. Last, do the teardrops in between these strokes. Doing the flower in this manner ensures a nice balance to the flower. Apply the center dot with thinned Titanium White.
ATTACHING THE SNOWFLAKE
Apply a thin line of glue to the unfinished backside of the snowflake. Use glue sparingly. Add enough so that it securely adheres to the surface, but does not flow outward when pressed in place. Place a small ring of glue onto the lid where the center of the snowflake will be glued down. Center and press down on the snowflake. Allow this to dry overnight. It will pull down quite a bit on its own, so you do not need much glue.
SNOWFLAKE STROKES
Start by placing the dots with thinned Titanium White, following the design to the cover between snowflake points. When all dots are applied, using the no. 0/0 scroller fill in the lines between these dots, as shown on the design. Allow the entire piece to dry well.
BALL FEET AND RING AROUND COVER
Do this step one area at a time. Apply a coat of Tita- nium White to a small area and sprinkle with Lily White while the paint is still wet. Move on to the next small area, until all areas have a soft layer of Lily White. Do not mix the glitter into the paint. It shows up much nicer if sprin- kled onto the wet paint surface.
You have now completed your snowflake bowl. Don’t forget to sign your work!
artist’s sketch
Jan Boettcher has been rosemaling since the early 1980s and her love for it has continued to grow. Her goal is to share rosemaling and to create an interest in the art form. It originated in Norway and has a wonderful history. Jan was juried into the Indiana Artisans in 2011, which was a tremendous honor. She is a teacher, travel-teacher, and designer of rosemaling packets. Jan studied rosemaling in the United States and Norway. She joined SDP in 1998, and is the owner of Turn of the Century Wood Products. Visit the company’s website at turnofthecentury-in.com; or email Jan at info@turnofthecentury-in.com.
60 The Decorative Painter • ISSUE NO. 1, 2014
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