Page 232 - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice

clear of the other two at their base, so that it will
not be trapped between them and the standing part
during the next tuck (Figure 6-41P). If necessary,
tug the third yarn toward the vise to get it out from
under its pair, then bend it out of the way.
Tuck the remainder of each strand twice more,
and you’ll be ready to taper again. This time, sepa-
rate each pair and lay one of them out. If they twist
around one another at the standing part, pull them
gently apart until they spring clear of each other.
Figure 6-410Q shows a splice that is about as rough
as it can be and still be acceptable once faired. Your
splices must look at least this good at this point
before you can consider yourself a splicer. Practice.
Tuck the remaining single wires twice more, and
you’ve finished tucking.
Before fairing, tie all the ends down to the stand-
ing part, then take the splice out of the vise and over Figure 6-41P. Second row of tucks done, taper
to a stump. The stump will serve as a soft, organic started.
anvil. To fair, beat the splice with your mallet, work-

1 x 19 Oversize Eye Entry

1 x 19 wire is usually spliced up “hard” to a thim- are right next to the standing part. To get a fair start,
ble, locking the thimble in place. But occasionally choose the pair of standing-part yarns and end yarns
you’ll see 1 x 19 splices where the eye is served with that are almost touching each other, as far inboard as
annealed stainless steel 1 x 7 seizing wire before you can easily reach.
being bent around the thimble. In this case the eye is Served, oversize eyes look real slick—they were
slightly oversized so that the splice service can meet it often put into the rigs for Concordia yawls—and the
smoothly. This oversize eye results in a slightly differ- wire service helps support the wire yarns as they lay
ent-looking splice start: Rather than jumping across around the thimble.
from one side of the thimble to the other, the ends

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