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A32    FEATURE
                    Wednesday 6 June 2018
            Bathe naked with strangers? Welcome to a Japanese bathhouse




            By LINDA LOMBARDI                                                                                                   clothes in a locker. This part
            Associated Press                                                                                                    should feel familiar to any-
            TOKYO  (AP)  —  Japan  is                                                                                           one who's been to a gym.
            proud  of  its  bathing  tradi-                                                                                     —Leave  the  big  towel  in
            tions. For many Westerners,                                                                                         the  locker  but  take  the
            though, the fact that these                                                                                         small one with you. Use it for
            traditions involve being na-                                                                                        washing and/or to dry your-
            ked  with  strangers  is  awk-                                                                                      self  a  bit  after  your  bath
            ward at best, even though                                                                                           so  you  don't  drip  onto  the
            men  and  women  bathe                                                                                              changing room floor.
            separately.                                                                                                         —The  bathroom  has  indi-
            On my first trip I tried to wrig-                                                                                   vidual washing stations. The
            gle out of a friend's offer to                                                                                      station may already have a
            take me to an onsen, or hot                                                                                         stool, or you can take one
            springs resort. I suggested a                                                                                       and  a  wash  basin  from  a
            different town that had an                                                                                          stack.  The  basin  is  the  tra-
            attraction I wanted to see,                                                                                         ditional  way  to  wash  and
            and  thought  I  was  off  the                                                                                      rinse yourself, but now there
            hook.                                                                                                               are also hand sprayers.
            I should have done my re-                                                                                           —Wash  thoroughly.  The
            search  better:  That  town                                                                                         bath is just for soaking; since
            was famous for its onsen as                                                                                         the  water  there  is  shared,
            well.                                                                                                               you're  expected  to  be
            It  turned  out  for  the  best,                                                                                    clean first. Be careful not to
            though,  because  I've  be-  This undated photo provided by Stéphanie Crohin shows traditional baths and murals in Kasuga   splash your neighbors.
            come  a  fan.  Nothing  is   onsen, or hot spring bath, in Matsuzaka, Mie prefecture, Japan.                        —Tie up long hair. You don't
            more relaxing after a tiring                                                                       Associated Press  want  it  to  dangle  into  the
            day  of  sightseeing  than  a                                                                                       shared bath.
            long soak, and you can re-   for example, that do have  that  with  everyone  else  These may be an easy way  Now you're ready to soak!
            assure  yourself  that  you're  natural spring water.     acting  like  it's  normal,  you  in  for  the  first-timer,  but  if  At  this  point  you'll  still  be
            experiencing     authentic  For  the  outsider,  though,  will  quickly  get  comfort-  you  want  to  experience  carrying  your  small  towel,
            culture at the same time.    the facilities will look much  able. "For some people it is  authentic  local  culture,  which  brings  up  another
            Two  terms  are  basic  when  the same and more impor-    a big challenge to be na-    make  sure  you  try  a  sento  rule:  never  put  your  towel
            talking  about  Japanese  tant,  so  are  the  traditions  ked  in  front  of  others,  but  too. Just follow the rules so  into the bath. If you've seen
            baths:  onsen  and  sento.  and etiquette.                genders are separate, and  you'll fit in. At a typical bath  Japanese  bathing  on  TV,
            An  onsen  has  natural  hot  Stephanie  Crohin  is  au-  everybody just doesn't look  here's the routine:          people will usually be cov-
            spring water. A sento, usu-  thor  of  a  book  in  Japa-  and doesn't care," she says.  —Leave  your  shoes  in  an  ered  with  towels,  but  that
            ally  translated  as  public  nese  about  sento.  For  the  "It is the ideal place to for-  outside locker.        is only for filming. The most
            bath, typically uses regular  past  three  years,  she  has  get about complexes!"     —Pay  the  fee.  If  you  traditional thing to do with
            water,  traditionally  heated  been the official volunteer  Although  you  won't  have  haven't  brought  your  own  the small towel is fold it and
            by burning wood. Tall chim-  ambassador  for  the  To-    much  trouble  finding  a  soap  and  shampoo,  you  rest  it  on  your  head  while
            neys for the smoke are one  kyo Sento Association. She  sento  in  a  city  like  Tokyo,  can  buy  small  bottles  and  you're bathing.
            visual  symbol  of  the  city  has  visited  over  700  sento  their  numbers  are  in  fact  rent  towels.  You'll  be  giv-  Finally,  sento  and  onsen
            sento.                       across Japan and her book  declining.  Last  year,  she  en  one  large  towel  and  a  have  traditionally  prohib-
            The distinction is noted be-  and Instagram feed reveal  says, 40 sento closed in To-  small one.                   ited  tattoos,  which  are  as-
            cause various spring waters  the beauty of their interiors,  kyo.  Fifty  years  ago,  there  —Go through the entrance  sociated  with  organized
            are  supposed  to  have  dif-  where photography is usu-  were  around  2,700  sento  for your gender. (You might  crime. These restrictions are
            ferent  health  benefits.  On-  ally  prohibited,  including  in  the  city,  but  now  there  want  to  memorize  the  loosening.  Sento  are  usu-
            sen  are  commonly  found  many  traditional  painted  are around 560, with 2,500  characters  for  "man"  and  ally fine with them, but su-
            at  hotels  and  resorts  out-  murals  and  immaculate  across the country.           "woman" in advance.)         per sento and onsen resorts
            side the city, but there are  tilework.                   One reason sento are clos-   —In  the  changing  room,  may  not  be,  so  check  in
            about  45  sento  in  Tokyo,  She  reassures  first-timers  ing  is  that  many  of  their  undress   and   put   your  advance.q
                                                                      customers are elderly. Now
                                                                      that  every  home  has  its
                                                                      own bath, younger people
                                                                      often  never  cultivated  the
                                                                      habit.  Some  sento  are  try-
                                                                      ing  new  strategies  to  at-
                                                                      tract  customers,  including
                                                                      presenting   exhibits   and
                                                                      events  such  as  concerts
                                                                      and  developing  English  in-
                                                                      formation to attract tourists.
                                                                      Another  innovation:  "super
                                                                      sento,"  more  like  day  spas
                                                                      with  additional  facilities
                                                                      and  entertainment.  One
                                                                      in Tokyo, Oedo Onsen Mo-
            This undated photo provided by Stéphanie Crohin shows bath   nogatari, is basically a hot   This  undated  photo  provided  by  Stéphanie  Crohin  shows  a
            and mural at Mikoku-yu onsen, or hot spring bath, in Sumida   bath theme park with a re-  changing room in Unsuisen sento, or public bath, in Tokyo, Ja-
            ward, Tokyo, Japan.                                       created  Edo  period  town-  pan.
                                                     Associated Press  scape.                                                               Associated Press
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