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A32    FEATURE
                   Tuesday 6 March 2018
            Cambodian genocide documented in victims' preserved clothes




            By SOPHENG CHEANG and                                                                                               teaching  half  a  dozen
            GRANT PECK,                                                                                                         Cambodian      colleagues
            PHNOM  PENH,  Cambodia                                                                                              to  photograph  a  piece
            (AP)  —  As  a  leader  in  the                                                                                     to  identify  it  for  inventory,
            field of textile conservation,                                                                                      "then  just  to  surface  clean
            Julia  Brennan  has  worked                                                                                         carefully with a vacuum or
            to  preserve  many  glamor-                                                                                         a  soft  brush,  and  then  the
            ous  and  historic  articles  of                                                                                    dirt  can  be  saved  as  part
            clothing,  from  a  kimono                                                                                          of  the  record  and  some
            presented to Babe Ruth, to                                                                                          of  the  surface  soiling  will
            singer James Brown's jump-                                                                                          be  loosened."  Treatment
            suit,  to  a  British  aristocrat's                                                                                 doesn't end there. In tropi-
            coronation gown.                                                                                                    cal places like Cambodia,
            Her  profession,  however,                                                                                          there's a lot of mildew and
            has  also  brought  her  into                                                                                       mold as well as live insects
            contact  with  humanity's                                                                                           to deal with. To try to pro-
            darkest  moments,  includ-                                                                                          tect  the  material  for  the
            ing  genocides  in  Rwanda                                                                                          long term, it is put into "mi-
            and Cambodia.                                                                                                       cro  climates"  in  which  the
            Brennan  recently  began                                                                                            relative  humidity  can  be
            a project at the Tuol Sleng                                                                                         reduced. Brennan said she
            Genocide Museum in Cam-                                                                                             developed this system dur-
            bodia's   capital,   Phnom                                                                                          ing  her  work  in  Rwanda,
            Penh,  where  the  Khmer     In this Feb. 5, 2018, photo, leading textile conservationist Julia Brennan holds a scarf from a victim   putting the items in dry stor-
                                         of the former Khmer Rouge as she inspects artifacts at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom
            Rouge in the late 1970s tor-  Penh, Cambodia.                                                                       age boxes with desiccants,
            tured  as  many  as  17,000                                                                       Associated Press  pellets normally used in the
            men, women and children                                                                                             agriculture industry.
            before killing them. The mu-  2014. The 59-year-old Bren-  train  Cambodian  staff  to  museum's  chief  conserva-  Kho Chenda, a 28-year-old
            seum's  macabre  artifacts  nan was born to American  care for them.                   tor, said in an email.       staff member at Tuol Sleng,
            include   torture   devices  parents in Indonesia, where  Brennan worked on a simi-    Brennan,  who  since  1996  has  taken  Brennan's  pres-
            and displays of skulls.      her  father  was  on  a  Jesuit  lar project for the past two  has had her own company,  ervation  lessons  to  heart.
            The  most  haunting  display  scholarship  teaching  at  years  in  Rwanda,  where  Caring for Textiles, in Wash-   She said what she's learned
            comprises  photo  portraits  universities  and  doing  re-  long-standing  rivalries  be-  ington, D.C., made a similar  is vital because of the mu-
            that  were  kept  as  part  of  search.  She  was  raised  in  tween  two  tribes  led  to  point during an interview at  seum's mission to teach the
            the   meticulous    record-  northern  Thailand,  where  the killings of an estimated  Tuol Sleng.                  horrific legacy of the Khmer
                                                                      800,000  people  in  1994.  "You're not going to neces-   Rouge. "If that clothing gets
                                                                      She  helped  to  preserve  sarily cry or have memories  too old and worn out, then
                                                                      clothing  at  the  Nyamata  when  you  see  a  skull,  but  the  evidence  it  offers  will
                                                                      church,  where  more  than  when you see a skirt that's  be  gone,  and  when  you
                                                                      10,000 people were slaugh-   the  same  pattern  as  your  talk to the younger genera-
                                                                      tered as they sought shelter  mother's, then that's going  tion,  they  will  not  believe
                                                                      from marauding mobs. The  to  bring  these  memories  you,"  she  said.  Kong  Kunt-
                                                                      church  is  now  a  memorial  that  are  so  palpable,  and  heary, another of Brennan's
                                                                      site, with the clothing an in-  this is so powerful," she said.  students, echoed the senti-
                                                                      tegral part of its exhibition.  Less  is  more  in  conserva-  ment. "This clothing is really
                                                                      The  power  of  clothing  in  tion, according to Brennan,  important evidence, so we
                                                                      documenting  genocide  is  "because we want to keep  have to preserve it to make
                                                                      widely  recognized  by  ex-  the  associated  dirt  and  sure that even in 100 or 200
                                                                      perts. The collection at the  stains and particles as part  years, it will not have disap-
                                                                      Auschwitz-Birkenau     Me-   of the context and informa-  peared,"  said  the  52-year-
                                                                      morial  and  Museum  in  Po-  tion of the artifact."      old  employee  of  the  Na-
            In this Feb. 5, 2018, photo, a tourist views piles of clothing from
            the victims executed by the Khmer Rouge regime at the Tuol   land  includes  390  striped  So for Tuol Sleng's artifacts,  tional  Museum  in  Phnom
            Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.            inmates'  uniforms  and  246  she  said  she  has  been  Penh.q
                                                     Associated Press  Jewish  prayer  shawls,  ac-
                                                                      cording to Pawel Sawicki, a
            keeping  ordered  by  Tuol  her  father  worked  for  the  press officer for the memo-
            Sleng's Khmer Rouge com-     U.S. government, and when  rial.
            mander,  who  in  2012  was  he later worked on a Euro-   The United States Holocaust
            sentenced  to  life  in  prison  pean  Union  arms  control  Memorial Museum in Wash-
            for  crimes  against  human-  project in Cambodia, Bren-  ington, D.C., holds a variety
            ity, murder and torture.     nan  became  acquainted  of items of clothing as well.
            But  only  a  small  amount  with that country's culture.  One of the most striking ex-
            of  victims'  clothing  is  dis-  Brennan  was  keenly  inter-  hibits is of 4,000 shoes from
            played;  most  was  stowed  ested in the Tuol Sleng proj-  some  of  the  victims  of  the
            away  in  nooks  and  cran-  ect,  and  the  U.S.  Embassy  Majdanek   concentration
            nies,  untouched  since  the  in  Phnom  Penh  eventually  camp in Poland.
            museum  was  established  gave  a  $55,000  grant  to  "The  exhibit  very  simply
            in  1980.  Museum  director  support it.                  shows  the  magnitude  of
            Chhay Visoth felt it was ur-  She  then  began  her  work  Nazi  murder  while  simulta-
            gent  to  register  and  pre-  to jump-start the preserva-  neously allowing the viewer   In this April 9, 2015, file photo, tourists view portraits of victims
                                                                                                   executed by the Khmer Rouge regime at the Tuol Sleng Geno-
            serve  these  holdings,  and  tion  of  3,000-5,000  articles  to  individualize  the  horror,"   cide Museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
            he sought Brennan's help in  of  prisoners'  clothing  and  Jane Klinger, the Holocaust                                        Associated Press
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