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A32    FEATURE
                      Tuesday 19 June 2018
            More than melting watches: Spain's Salvador Dali Triangle




            By DANA SCHIMMEL                                                                                                    ter draftsman he was, and
            Associated Press                                                                                                    it was good to see several
            FIGUERES,  Spain  (AP)  —  If                                                                                       paintings  with  the  familiar
            the  name  Salvador  Dali                                                                                           watch that was one of Da-
            conjures  images  of  melt-                                                                                         li's most famous motifs.
            ing watches and one con-                                                                                            By the time you wend your
            spicuous mustache but not                                                                                           way through the entire mu-
            much  else,  then  a  visit  to                                                                                     seum, perhaps stopping to
            Spain's  "Dali  Triangle"  will                                                                                     pay  your  respects  at  Dali's
            not  only  make  for  a  fan-                                                                                       tomb — famously exhumed
            tastic road trip, it will show                                                                                      in 2017 to settle a paternity
            that  there's  so  much  more                                                                                       claim  (disproven)  —  you'll
            to the renowned surrealist's                                                                                        have  seen  so  much  that
            work.                                                                                                               you  may  feel  slightly  over-
            Dali's  homes,  converted                                                                                           whelmed.  But  do  not  skip
            to  museums,  are  located                                                                                          the  adjacent  Dali  Jewels
            along  the  Costa  Brava,  a                                                                                        museum!  Visiting  this  dimly
            nearly  100-mile  (160-kilo-                                                                                        lit,  cave-like  gallery  space
            meter)  stretch  of  rugged                                                                                         housing  39  jeweled  cre-
            coastline  in  northeastern                                                                                         ations is like walking into a
            Catalonia.  Plan  a  leisurely                                                                                      pirate's treasure chest.
            drive  with  stops  in  Pubol,                                                                                      If I could choose one piece
            Figueres  and  Portlligat  —                                                                                        for my personal collection,
            the  three  points  of  the  tri-                                                                                   I'd go with either "Ruby Lips,"
            angle — to experience the                                                                                           in  18-karat  gold  with  over
            museums,  Dali's  art  and   In this July 21, 2017, file photo, visitors stand near the tomb of Salvador Dali inside Dali Museum   100  rubies  and  13  white
            the  stunning  natural  scen-  Theatre in Figueres, Spain.                                                          pearls  for  teeth,  or  "Tele-
            ery that helped shape and                                                                          Associated Press  phone Ear Clips," made of
            inspire  one  of  the  world's                                                                                      gold, diamonds, rubies and
            most iconic artists.         Gala's  burnt-orange  Dat-   north of Pubol. You'll know  that  it  wouldn't  be  a  bad  emeralds. They are sublime
            PUBOL:  GALA  DALI  CASTLE  sun car parked outside on  you've  arrived  when  you  idea  to  hang  a  little  sign  and playful, but not silly.
            MUSEUM                       a  pebble  driveway.  Then  spot either a giant transpar-  saying,  "Enter  at  your  own  "I am pleased if my jeweled
            Dali purchased a medieval  there's  this  eccentric  arti-  ent  geodesic  dome  or  a  risk."  Dali's  drawings  re-  telephone earrings bring a
            castle  in  the  village  of  Pu-  fact:  Dali's  beloved  white  collection of massive eggs  minded  me  what  a  mas-  smile," Dali said. q
            bol  for  his  wife  Elena  Iva-  horse,  taxidermied,  stand-  atop  a  building.  That,  of
            novna  Diakonova,  better  ing near the museum's rest-    course, is the Dali Theatre-
            known as Gala. The couple  rooms.                         Museum,  which  the  artist
            transformed  the  structure,  The  top  floor  displays  a  designed from the burnt re-
            built  on  the  remains  of  a  collection  of  Gala's  cou-  mains of the town's Munici-
            14th  century  stone  castle,  ture gowns. The basement  pal Theatre.
            into  a  home  where  Gala  houses  her  final  resting  If  it  weren't  for  the  steady
            could  both  reign  and  re-  place: She is enshrined in a  flow of museum visitors pro-
            lax.  Her  husband  was  only  mausoleum  watched  over  pelling you along the one-
            permitted to visit by written  by a tall toy giraffe, surpris-  way  galleries,  you  could
            invitation.                  ingly  more  touching  than  spend hours, days or forev-
            Many works of art — includ-  trite.                       er observing and analyzing
            ing paintings Dali gifted his  FIGUERES:  DALI  THEATRE-  some 1,500 works of art by
            wife — are on display along  MUSEUM AND DALI JEWELS       Dali — paintings, drawings,
            with personal items ranging  Figueres,  named  for  its  sculptures,     engravings,
            from  monogrammed  silver  once-abundant fig trees, is  installations,    holograms,
            flatware,  seen  in  a  half-  a bustling small town about  stereoscopic  images  and
            opened kitchen drawer, to  25  miles  (40  kilometers)  photographs.
                                                                      Some  works  will  make  you
                                                                      smile,  like  the  fire  engine-
                                                                      red  "Mae  West  Lips  Sofa,"
                                                                      a couch-sized sculpture in-
                                                                      spired  by  the  actress'  lips.
                                                                      And  there's  "Rainy  Taxi,"
                                                                      which for the price of one
                                                                      euro,  will  rain  inside  itself,
                                                                      soaking its mannequin pas-
                                                                      sengers and the plants and
                                                                      snails along for the prover-
                                                                      bial ride.
                                                                      Other  works  are  quietly
                                                                      beautiful,  like  the  early  oil
                                                                      portrait of Dali's sister, Anna
                                                                      Maria,  gazing  out  a  win-
                                                                      dow at the sea and cliffs in   This  Aug.  14,  1979,  file  photo,  shows  Spanish  surrealist  painter
            This Oct. 18, 1984, file photo, shows Spanish painter Salvador Da-  Cadaques. But some paint-  Salvador Dali on at his home in Port Lligat on the Costa Brava,
            li's mansion in Figueras, Spain, where he was living at the time.   ings  are  so  violent,  maca-  Spain.
                                                     Associated Press                                                                       Associated Press
                                                                      bre,  intense  and  complex
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