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A32    FEATURE
                        Friday 4 May 2018
            Pruning olive trees is a balance of art, lore and science




            By CAIN BURDEAU                                                                                                     that."  ''Cut  branches  that
            TORRETTA,  Sicily  (AP)  —                                                                                          shoot up." ''No, leave a few
            Watching  Giovanni  Ca-                                                                                             shooting up."
            ruso  prune  an  olive  tree  is                                                                                    And on it goes.
            like  observing  a  mountain                                                                                        A look at the trees around
            climber  decide  how  to                                                                                            us  made  us  even  more
            reach the next hand-grip in                                                                                         confused.    Many    were
            a cliff. He chooses his path                                                                                        pruned so heavily that only
            with  deliberation.  He  even                                                                                       a  few  limp  twigs  were  left
            wears a helmet.                                                                                                     dangling  off  main  branch-
            With  a  set  of  newfangled                                                                                        es. The sound of chain saws
            tools  and  theories,  this                                                                                         was routine.
            35-year-old  Sicilian  biolo-                                                                                       Slowly,  we  gained  con-
            gist  and  self-made  prun-                                                                                         fidence  and  speed.  We
            ing expert is working on his                                                                                        started  with  obviously  de-
            first  commercial  project  to                                                                                      pleted dry sections, suckers
            introduce  the  central  Ital-                                                                                      and  overlapping  branch-
            ian  technique  known  as                                                                                           es, and then moved on to
            the  "polyconic  vase"  into                                                                                        what  wasn't  so  obvious.  It
            Sicily's  often  remote  and                                                                                        took hours to prune the big-
            overgrown  olive  groves.                                                                                           ger specimens.
            This method seeks to sculpt                                                                                         Caruso  stood  in  a  section
            a tree into separate cone-   This  March  13,  2018  photo  shows  reporter  and  writer  Cain  Burdeau  pruning  an  olive  tree  with   of the orchard planted with
            shaped sides, thus produc-   shears and a small saw on a property his wife and he bought in Contrada Petraro in the mountains   Nocellara  del  belice  trees.
            ing  more  olives  that  are   of northern Sicily near Castelbuono.                                                 They looked nice to me. But
            easier to pick.                                                                                                     not to him.
            "The   cone's    geometric  anymore,"  lamented  Gre-     In the past four years, Caru-  damage  will  I  do  if  I  cut  "The  trees  lack  leaves  and
            shape  allows  the  most  gorio Ugdulena, a descen-       so has trained himself in the  this branch instead of that  there  are  many  diseases,"
            branches to be exposed to  dant of the family that de-    polyconic  vase  method.  one? Will I kill a tree? Can I  Caruso said. "Look around:
            the sun," Caruso said.       veloped the estate.          He  now  does  workshops  climb into a tree to prune?  It's  surrounded  by  moun-
            I  thought  about  the  over-  His  sister,  Amalia,  remem-  in  Sicily,  where  Ugdulena,  How exactly should I cut off  tains  so  there  isn't  any  cir-
            grown  olive  trees  I  bought  bered  when  field  hands  and I, met him.             a branch?                    culation,  and  there's  a  lot
            a  few  years  ago  with  my  clambered up high ladders  It  is  early  April,  the  end  of  Add  to  this  the  contradic-  of  humidity."  Humidity  is
            wife  and  two  boys  on  a  to prune, and boys carried  a  long  pruning  season  for  tory  advice  from  friends  bad for olives, he said.
            property  in  Sicily.  This  was  pots of tar to heal the trees'  Caruso and also for my wife  and  local  farmers,  all  ea-  At his side was Giuseppe Lo
            the  first  year  we  pruned  fresh cuts.                 and me. We'd spent much  ger to tell you what you're  Presti, a 41-year-old agron-
            them,  nervously  trying  to  "Many people have aban-     of  the  past  few  months  doing  wrong:    "Clear  out  omist  and  olive  tree  spe-
            open them up to the sun as  doned their olive orchards,"  learning to prune our long-  the  center."  ''No,  because  cialist. Lo Presti stooped to
            we'd learned from Caruso.                                                                                           inspect a dead tree.
            Caruso  wielded  a  chain                                                                                           "Look, this is what happens
            saw  mounted  on  an  ex-                                                                                           when  you  don't  cut  right,"
            tendable  pole  and  pow-                                                                                           he said. Someone had cut
            ered  by  a  battery  pack.                                                                                         into  the  trunk,  allowing  in-
            Pruning  in  Sicily  is  mostly                                                                                     fections in.
            done  with  regular  chain                                                                                          Caruso moved on, his chain
            saws,  but  also  with  hand-                                                                                       saw whirring into action.
            saws and shears, as we had                                                                                          "The trick is to start from the
            done.                                                                                                               top;  the  apex  controls  the
            He  moved  on  to  another                                                                                          plant," he said. "By pruning
            tree.                                                                                                               from the top, you can see
            "Just  looking  at  it,  it  seems                                                                                  how much light comes in."
            to  be  a  globe,"  he  said.                                                                                       The  new  technique  has
            "We're going to try to make                                                                                         been  met  with  skepticism
            it a vase, which means we'll                                                                                        in  the  region,  Caruso  said.
            cut out the center."                                                                                                Resting  a  foot  on  a  wall
            And  within  a  few  minutes                                                                                        overlooking  the  orchard,
            he'd transformed it.                                                                                                he  recounted  how  three
            The  location  was  redolent                                                                                        men  stopped  to  criticize
            of  history:  6,000  olive  trees                                                                                   him, an outsider with a nev-
            on  a  former  noble  estate                                                                                        er-before-seen  helmet.  He
            in  Torretta,  a  valley  town                                                                                      wears it because he works
            near  Palermo.  The  sprawl-                                                                                        from the ground and could
            ing villa, once a monastery,   This April 4, 2018 photo shows Giovanni Caruso pruning a large olive tree on a former noble es-  be  hit  by  falling  branches
                                         tate in Torretta near Palermo, Sicily. He is seeking to revive the estate's 6,000 olive trees – many of
            recalls  a  Sicily  of  opulent   which are diseased and suffering from poor management – by pruning them with a central Italian   — he has a scar to prove it.
            leisure  and  eccentric  aris-  technique known as the polyconic vase.                                              "They  shouted:  'No,  don't
            tocrats.                                                                                                            cut  that  one!  Cut  that
            To  an  untrained  eye,  the                                                                                        branch!  Where  are  you
            orchard could appear fine.  Gregorio said with a sigh.    abandoned,  40-odd  olive  of  the  heat,  you  should  from?' It was quite a spec-
            But a lot is going wrong, Ca-  That's  why  he  brought  in  trees.                    leave  some  branches  to  tacle,"  he  said.  "Everyone
            ruso said. Many trees suffer  Caruso,  an  energetic  for-  For   beginners,   pruning  shade  the  center."  ''Cut  thinks they're the best, that
            from neglect and disease.    mer bersagliere (an elite ri-  any  tree  can  be  daunt-  off  branches  that  hang  to  only  they  know  (how  to
            "In this area, no one prunes  fleman) in the Italian army.  ing.  Where  to  start?  What  the ground." ''No, don't do  prune)."q
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