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A10   WORLD NEWS
               Thursday 13 February 2020
            Burned India denim factory had single door reached by ladder




            By SHEIKH SAALIQ and         multiple  regulations  and  signments,  stitching  more   ing conditions in the textile  Joe  Fresh,  the  fashion
            MARTHA MENDOZA               the owner, a manager and  than  400  pieces  of  gar-     factories across the city are  brand  created  for  Cana-
            Associated Press Writers     a  fire  safety  officer  have  ments  a  day.  This  forced   grim,  with  rare  inspections  da's  Loblaw  Companies
            NEW DELHI (AP) — Shouting  been arrested.                 many  of  them,  mostly      and few safety norms.        Ltd.,  said  Nandan  is  not  a
            and  crying,  workers  in  an  Local safety and health au-  women, to work at a frantic   "These  incidents  are  ir-  supplier and doesn't make
            Indian denim factory strug-                                                                                         their goods.
            gled to claw their way up a                                                                                         But  company  officials  said
            ladder to a door, their only                                                                                        they  believe  one  of  their
            exit as a fire blazed through                                                                                       approved  suppliers  has
            fabric  and  machinery,  of-                                                                                        purchased  bulk  quantities
            ficials  said.  Seven  people                                                                                       of  denim  from  Nandan,
            died in the weekend blaze,                                                                                          and they are further inves-
            and families were still wait-                                                                                       tigating. Target and others
            ing Wednesday to recover                                                                                            did not respond to queries
            their relatives' bodies.                                                                                            about whether their autho-
            "Smoke kept billowing from                                                                                          rized  suppliers  may  have
            the  building  as  workers                                                                                          purchased    denim    from
            trapped  inside  screamed                                                                                           Nandan.
            for  help,"  said  a  witness                                                                                       Zara's parent company, In-
            who  spoke  on  condition                                                                                           ditex,  said  Nandan  Denim
            of  anonymity  because  he                                                                                          has  produced  10,000  pairs
            was  worried  he'd  lose  his                                                                                       of  jeans  for  another  of  its
            job.                                                                                                                brands, Lefties.
            The  factory  where  the  fire                                                                                      Nandan     Denim's    sister
            occurred,  Nandan  Denim,                                                                                           company,  Nandan  Terry,
            has ties to major U.S. retail-                                                                                      supplies  towels  and  linens
            ers,  according  to  its  web-                                                                                      to  many  U.S.  stores  includ-
            site. Nandan says it supplies                                                                                       ing  Walmart  and  H&M,
            jeans,  denim  and  other                                                                                           according  to  ImportGen-
            garments  to  more  than  20                                                                                        ius  shipping  records.  Those
            global  brands  including                                                                                           corporations   said   they
            U.S.  companies  such  as                                                                                           would  also  look  into  the
            Target, Ann Taylor, Mango                                                                                           situation.
            and Wrangler, and its sister                                                                                        Kontoor  Brands,  maker  of
            company supplies Walmart                                                                                            Wrangler  jeans,  said  they
            and H&M.                                                                                                            last worked with the factory
            Some of the U.S. and mul-                                                                                           in 2014.
            tinational companies listed   This Saturday, Feb. 8, 2020 photo, shows the damage after a fire broke out at Nandan Denim, one   "Our thoughts are with the
            on  the  website  said  they   of the largest denim suppliers in the world, in Ahmedabad, India.                    workers  and  their  families
            were  not  actually  custom-                                                                       Associated Press   impacted  by  the  tragic
            ers, and many issued state-                                                                                         situation," Kontoor said in a
            ments  that  strongly  con-  thorities asked the compa-   pace, often forgoing meal    reversible  and  only  strict  statement.
            demned  dangerous  work  ny to close until further no-    breaks  or  using  the  toilet,   monitoring  by  the  govern-  Nandan  Denim  reported
            sites. Nandan Denim is one  tice. Its licenses have been  survivors said.              ment and its agencies can  revenues of $218 million last
            of the largest denim suppli-  suspended,  and  Nandan  One       victim,   Dayabhai    help  prevent  such  disas-  year,  and  says  it  exports
            ers in the world.            Denim  has  agreed  to  pay  Makwana,  made  it  out      ters," Barot said.           to  more  than  20  countries
            The  fire  broke  out  Satur-  the families of those killed a  alive,  but  went  back  in  to   He  also  said  labor  unions  and  has  more  than  4,500
            day in its two-story factory  reported $14,000 each.      rescue co-workers and per-   across  the  region  have  employees.  Shares  of  the
            on the outskirts of Ahmed-   Purvee,  a  factory  spokes-  ished.                      been  declining  over  the  company  were  tumbling
            abad,  a  fast-growing  city  woman  who  goes  by  only  "I wish he hadn't gone back   last  few  decades,  making  after news of the fire.
            of  8.6  million  in  western  one name, did not explain  to  save  his  colleagues,"   it  difficult  for  the  voices  of  Scott   Nova,   executive
            Gujarat  state.  The  city's  how  it  started  but  called  said  his  grieving  brother,   workers to be heard.   director  of  Washington-
            industrial  area,  once  cov-  the  fire  "unfortunate."  Fac-  Dhanabai  Makwana.  He   Some  of  the  major  brands  based Workers Rights Con-
            ered  with  mountains  of  tory  officials  would  not  said  more than 30  workers    contacted,  including  Ann  sortium,  said,  "It  does  not
            garbage,  has  slowly  shift-  comment on whether they  were  in  the  factory  at  the   Taylor,  Target,  Zara  and  cost  much  to  put  fire  exits
            ed into a hub for factories  had  undergone  required  time of the blaze.              Pull&Bear, said they are not  in a textile factory."
            that  make  clothes  sold  to  audits and reviews.        Sobbing  families  were  still   customers  and  don't  have  "Brands  and  retailers  are
            brands across the world.     Surviving  workers,  who  are  waiting  Wednesday  out-   a relationship with Nandan  well  aware  of  the  safety
            Rajesh  Bhatt,  a  senior  fire  paid  about  35  cents  per  side  one  of  the  city's  hos-  Denim.              risks  in  the  garment  and
            official  at  the  scene,  said  hour,  said  conditions  had  pital  mortuaries  to  iden-  Target  said  it  is  working  to  textile industry in India, yet
            the  factory  had  just  one  been dangerous.             tify bodies charred beyond   get its name off their web-  they choose to do business
            door  that  could  only  be  "We  work  almost  14  hours  recognition. They were told   site and out of their annual  with  unsafe  suppliers,"  he
            reached  by  climbing  a  a day. But do we have an  DNA  confirmation  would           reports.                     said. "The result is that work-
            steep  ladder.  The  workers,  option?"  said  Vimalbhai,  a  not come before Friday.  Because thread, fabric cut-  ers  are  losing  their  lives  in
            Bhatt said, were resting af-  textile worker who goes by  "We can't even mourn our     ting,  weaving  and  sewing  factory disasters that could
            ter long shifts when the fire  one  name.  "Every  once  a  dead  because  we  don't   can  be  done  in  different  easily  have  been  prevent-
            started.                     while there is a fire in some  know  which  one  is  ours,"   locations,  apparel  supply  ed."
            "There  were  hardly  any  factory  or  the  other.  No-  said  Mahesh  Patel,  whose   chains  can  be  complicat-  Forty-three  people  died
            means of escape from the  body  cares  and  we  keep  nephew  lost  his  life  in  the   ed  and  it  becomes  nearly  in  a  December  fire  at  a
            blaze," he said.             on working."                 blaze.                       impossible  to  track  a  spe-  factory  which  produced
            Police  investigators  said  Some  workers  said  they  Amar Barot of the Textile La-  cific item to a specific fac-  handbags, caps and other
            the  factory  had  violated  were  given  impossible  as-  bour Association said work-  tory.                       garments in New Delhi.q
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