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A32 FEATURE
Thursday 22 June 2017
Cook the apples, lose the gap! Mastering a better apple pie
This Sept. 21, 2015 photo shows deep dish apple pie in Concord, NH. Apple pie ingredients are few and elemental: apples, of course, along with sugar, flavoring and
pie crust. But choosing the right apples is a serious business.
Associated Press
SARA MOULTON supermarkets) should be applesauce. I recommend ples, peeled, cored and ander every so often.
Associated Press bursting with choices. Buy adding a few of the fall- cut into 1/4-inch-thick After the apples have
Any number of tasks may an assortment, taste each apart varieties to your pie. wedges drained, add the juices
strike you as easy as pie, kind and take notes about Their sauciness will moisten 1/2 cup plus 1 teaspoon from the bowl to the Dutch
but anyone who’s ever ac- their flavor, paying particu- and bind the rest of the ap- granulated sugar, divided oven and simmer until re-
tually made a pie can tell lar attention to their sugar ples in the filling. 1/4 cup packed dark duced to about 1/2 cup.
you that it actually requires level. An apple’s flavor in- Now, how to prevent brown sugar In the bowl, combine the
some care if you want it to tensifies as it is cooked. Un- that gap? Simple. Gen- 1/4 teaspoon table salt reduced juices with the
turn out well. less you’re nuts about one tly pre-cook the apples, 1 to 2 tablespoons lemon apples. Taste for seasoning
Consider apple pie. Its in- particular variety, I’d ad- which drains them of liq- juice and add additional lemon
gredients are few and el- vise you to pick a mix for uid and shrinks their bulk. 1 teaspoon lemon zest juice if necessary. Cool to
emental: apples, of course, your pie. The complexity of They’ll shrink no more once Double batch of pie dough, room temperature.
along with sugar, flavoring the flavors will make the pie they’re added to the pie, refrigerated Meanwhile, remove 1 disk
and pie crust. But choosing that much more interesting. which means there’ll be 1 tablespoon heavy cream of dough from the refriger-
the right apples is a serious Some apples turn into mush no gap between the filling In a large Dutch oven over ator and roll it out between
business. Likewise, you’ll when they’re cooked, while and the top crust. But don’t medium-high heat, toss to- 2 large sheets of plastic
want to do what you can others hold their shape toss out that liquid! If you gether all of the apples, 1/2 wrap into a 12-inch circle,
to prevent the apples from for days. If you’re not sure boil it down as detailed be- cup of the granulated sug- about 1/8 inch thick. If the
shrinking in the pie shell as which way a given variety low and add it back to the ar, the brown sugar, salt, dough becomes soft and/
they cook, which simulta- will go, here’s a test: Cut a apples, you’ll amp up the 1 tablespoon of the lem- or sticky, return it to the re-
neously makes the bottom wedge into cubes, com- apple essence. on juice and lemon zest. frigerator and chill until firm.
crust soggy and creates an bine it with a pinch of sugar ___ Bring the mixture to a boil, Remove the plastic wrap
unsightly gap between the and a tablespoon of wa- DEEP-DISH APPLE PIE reduce to a simmer and from one side of the dough
filling and top crust. ter, then cook it, covered, Start to finish: 3 hours cook until the firm apples and flip it onto a 9-inch pie
Let’s start with the apples. over low heat for about 5 Servings: 8 are just tender when poked plate. Remove the second
Some are tart and some minutes, or until just tender. 4 pounds firm apples, (a with a knife, about 15 min- layer of wrap. Ease the
are sweet. Happily, autumn Most varieties will hold their mix of sweet and tart) utes. Transfer the apples to dough down into the plate
is apple season, which shape, but McIntosh, Ma- peeled, cored and cut into a large colander set over a and press it into the bottom
means farmers markets coun, Cortland and Empire 1/4-inch-thick wedges bowl and let them drain for and sides gently without
(and, to a lesser extent, will fall apart and turn into 1 pound applesauce ap- 15 minutes, shaking the col- stretching it.