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A32    FEATURE
                   Thursday 22 June 2017
              Cook the apples, lose the gap! Mastering a better apple pie
































































            This Sept. 21, 2015 photo shows deep dish apple pie in Concord, NH. Apple pie ingredients are few and elemental: apples, of course, along with sugar, flavoring and
            pie crust. But choosing the right apples is a serious business.
                                                                                                                                            Associated Press

            SARA MOULTON                 supermarkets)  should  be  applesauce. I recommend  ples,  peeled,  cored  and  ander every so often.
             Associated Press            bursting  with  choices.  Buy  adding  a  few  of  the  fall-  cut   into   1/4-inch-thick  After  the  apples  have
            Any  number  of  tasks  may  an  assortment,  taste  each  apart varieties to your pie.  wedges                     drained,  add  the  juices
            strike  you  as  easy  as  pie,  kind and take notes about  Their sauciness will moisten  1/2  cup  plus  1  teaspoon  from the bowl to the Dutch
            but anyone who’s ever ac-    their flavor, paying particu-  and bind the rest of the ap-  granulated sugar, divided  oven  and  simmer  until  re-
            tually  made  a  pie  can  tell  lar  attention  to  their  sugar  ples in the filling.  1/4  cup  packed  dark  duced to about 1/2 cup.
            you that it actually requires  level.  An  apple’s  flavor  in-  Now,   how   to   prevent  brown sugar             In  the  bowl,  combine  the
            some care if you want it to  tensifies as it is cooked. Un-  that  gap?  Simple.  Gen-  1/4 teaspoon table salt     reduced  juices  with  the
            turn out well.               less you’re nuts about one  tly  pre-cook  the  apples,  1  to  2  tablespoons  lemon  apples. Taste for seasoning
            Consider  apple  pie.  Its  in-  particular  variety,  I’d  ad-  which  drains  them  of  liq-  juice               and add additional lemon
            gredients  are  few  and  el-  vise  you  to  pick  a  mix  for  uid  and  shrinks  their  bulk.  1 teaspoon lemon zest  juice  if  necessary.  Cool  to
            emental: apples, of course,  your pie. The complexity of  They’ll shrink no more once  Double batch of pie dough,  room temperature.
            along  with  sugar,  flavoring  the flavors will make the pie  they’re  added  to  the  pie,  refrigerated          Meanwhile,  remove  1  disk
            and pie crust. But choosing  that much more interesting.  which  means  there’ll  be  1 tablespoon heavy cream      of dough from the refriger-
            the right apples is a serious  Some apples turn into mush  no gap between the filling  In a large Dutch oven over  ator and roll it out between
            business.  Likewise,  you’ll  when they’re cooked, while  and the top crust. But don’t  medium-high heat, toss to-  2  large  sheets  of  plastic
            want  to  do  what  you  can  others  hold  their  shape  toss  out  that  liquid!  If  you  gether all of the apples, 1/2  wrap  into  a  12-inch  circle,
            to prevent the apples from  for  days.  If  you’re  not  sure  boil it down as detailed be-  cup of the granulated sug-  about 1/8 inch thick. If the
            shrinking in the pie shell as  which way a given variety  low and add it back to the  ar,  the  brown  sugar,  salt,  dough becomes soft and/
            they  cook,  which  simulta-  will go, here’s a test: Cut a  apples,  you’ll  amp  up  the  1  tablespoon  of  the  lem-  or sticky, return it to the re-
            neously makes the bottom  wedge  into  cubes,  com-       apple essence.               on  juice  and  lemon  zest.  frigerator and chill until firm.
            crust soggy and creates an  bine it with a pinch of sugar  ___                         Bring the mixture to a boil,  Remove  the  plastic  wrap
            unsightly gap between the  and  a  tablespoon  of  wa-    DEEP-DISH APPLE PIE          reduce  to  a  simmer  and  from one side of the dough
            filling and top crust.       ter,  then  cook  it,  covered,  Start to finish: 3 hours  cook  until  the  firm  apples  and flip it onto a 9-inch pie
            Let’s  start  with  the  apples.  over  low  heat  for  about  5  Servings: 8          are just tender when poked  plate. Remove the second
            Some  are  tart  and  some  minutes, or until just tender.  4  pounds  firm  apples,  (a  with a knife, about 15 min-  layer  of  wrap.  Ease  the
            are sweet. Happily, autumn  Most varieties will hold their  mix  of  sweet  and  tart)  utes. Transfer the apples to  dough down into the plate
            is  apple  season,  which  shape,  but  McIntosh,  Ma-    peeled, cored and cut into  a large colander set over a  and press it into the bottom
            means    farmers   markets  coun, Cortland and Empire  1/4-inch-thick wedges           bowl and let them drain for  and  sides  gently  without
            (and,  to  a  lesser  extent,  will fall apart and turn into  1  pound  applesauce  ap-  15 minutes, shaking the col-  stretching it.
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