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Nome  community  enjoy  a  festive  banquet  halfway
      through the race.                                  WHERE WONDER TAKES FLIGHT
        Then,  there’s the  Iditarod  Trail  Invitational  in       Birding in Nome
      March  when  a  select  group of  (fool)hardy  souls
      test  themselves  against  Alaska’s winter  elements,
      traversing the famed trail by mountain bike, skis, or   Some places draw you in with breathtaking
      on foot. The 5K shoreline Gold Dust Dash offers up   scenery, others with rich culture—but Nome,
      a gold nugget to the winner, while the Poor Man’s   Alaska, is where it all converges: a land
      Beach Gold Panning Contest pits participants against   shaped by Native culture, gold rush history,
      each other to see who can find gold first in their bag   and a beauty that doesn’t just impress you—it
      of pay dirt.                            quietly transforms the way you see the world.
        Summerfest joyfully celebrates youth and art, while
      shopping for unique, hand-made items is a breeze at   Perched on the edge of the Bering Sea,
      Nome’s arts and crafts fairs, the largest of which is held   unreachable by road and shaped by Arctic
      during Iditarod Week in mid-March.  The Nome Arts   extremes, Nome doesn’t shout for attention.
      Council hosts the two-day Alappaa Film Festival, and   It doesn’t have to. Spend a day here—better
      biannual Open Mic events showcasing music, dance,   yet, three—and you begin to understand that
      poetry and storytelling.  The Salmonberry Jam Folk   the real story isn’t just in the landscape. It’s
      Fest is three fun-filled days of local and guest music   in the sky.
      artists,  workshops, dancing,  crafts,  and community   Nome is a living, breathing migration
      cookout.   The Blueberry Festival features arts and   story, one that spans continents, oceans, and,
      crafts, music and delightful  blueberry concoctions.   astonishingly, nearly nonstop flight paths that
      Check the Alaska.org website for more information or   defy logic.          Wait too long, and the tundra goes quiet.
      contact the Nome Visitors Center to determine what’s   At  the  center  of  it  all  is  Carol  Gales,  a   By late June, many species retreat into near
      happening during your visit.            longtime resident and founder of Roam   invisibility, protecting nests and young from
        Pilgrim Hot Springs                   Nome, a private guiding service specializing   predators, or they have begun their migration
        Located 60 road miles from Nome off Kougarok   in birding tours.        journey. By August, some have already left.
      Road, Pilgrim Hot Springs is a lush, treed oasis   Three Roads, Infinite Scenery   From Observer to Guide
      with  a  unique  past.  On  the  National  Register  of   Nome’s road system is deceptively simple:   Gales didn’t set out to become a birding
      Historic Places,  the  320-acre  property is positioned   three main roads and shorter side roads   guide. Like many visitors, she initially wanted
      in the tundra between Hen and Chickens Hill and the   stretching out a total of 300 miles across   to see the larger wildlife—bears, moose, and
      Kigluaik Mountain range. Pilgrim Hot Springs was   tundra, river valleys, and ridge lines. But   muskox.
      purchased in late 2009 from the Catholic Bishop of   those roads unlock access to an astonishing   “I wasn’t a birder when  I got here,” she
      Northern Alaska by a consortium of seven indigenous   diversity of habitats, and with it, one of the   admitted. “But I would see people standing
      organizations in the Bering Strait region who formed   most remarkable birding destinations in   by the side of the road looking through
      Unaatuq, LLC.                           North America.                    binoculars, and I would think, what are they
        Uunaqtuq  (it  is  warm  or  hot)  was  an  important   On any given day in late May or early   looking at? Then I took a class and became
      site recognized within the Qawiaraqmiut traditional   June,  you  might  find  yourself  driving  past   hooked on all the different species and their
      territory with a long history of use that continues   open tundra where many shorebirds nest   sounds.”
      to the present. Honored as a very special place   directly on the ground, then skirting coastal   Today, she offers private tours tailored to
      where animals  and edible  plants were available   wetlands where the land meets the sea in a   each traveler, whether that’s a photographer
      for subsistence even  in winter, the  Native  people   blur of motion, climbing toward rocky ridge   chasing the perfect shot, a seasoned birder
      respectfully  used the  springs in  times  of  need,   tops where entirely different species take   with a target species list, or a curious traveler
      enjoying healing hot water soaks surrounded by the   shelter,  and  finally  descending  into  brush-  simply wanting  to  understand  what they’re
                                              lined corridors alive with song.  seeing. Not only is Gales familiar with the
                                                                                roads out of Nome, but she also understands
                                                “There’s a big diversity,” Gales explained.   the variety of species and the nesting
                                              “Different species prefer different habitats,   habitat of the different birds. However, her
                                              and because of our roads, you can actually get   commanding knowledge doesn’t end with
                                              out to all of them.”              birds; she also offers history tours of Nome,
                                                For travelers, that accessibility is everything.   which everyone is encouraged to take to
                                              In much of rural Alaska, wilderness remains   understand the town’s heritage.
                                              just out of reach. In Nome, it’s right outside   Unlike  group  tours,  her  approach  is
                                              your windshield.                  personal and flexible.
                                                The Season That Changes Everything  “With me, you have a private guide who’s
                                                Timing, however, is everything.  doing what you want to do,” she said. Her
                                                The magic window—when the landscape   knowledge of the area is invaluable, whether
                                              and wildlife align—is brief. Late May through   you are an experienced birder checking off
                                              early June marks the peak migration and   your “must-see list” or one who has just
                                              nesting season, when birds arrive from across   picked up a pair of binoculars.
                                              the globe to breed under nearly endless   And maybe that’s one of the unique draws
                                              daylight and feast on an abundance of insects.  of Nome. Not just that it sits at the edge
                                                It’s also when they are most visible and the   of  Alaska,  but  that  it  quietly  reveals how
                                              most vocal.                       everything beyond it is connected because
                                                “They’re establishing territory and trying   the same birds you see in Nome will be the
                                              to attract a mate,” Gales said. “So they’re   ones  that  fly  to  Australia,  Hawaii,  Asia,  and
                                              being very loud and very visible. It’s the best   the farthest reaches of the globe.
                                              time to see them. Also, many bird species   Once you start looking up, you may never
                                              molt into more colorful plumage when trying   see travel the same way again.
                                              to mate, so a drab grey bird running around   To book a tour with Roam Nome, visit www.
                                              on the beach in Florida may look completely   roamnome.com or call (907) 304-9058. The full
                                              different  with  beautiful,  flashy  feathering   interview with Roam Nome can be viewed at
                                              while mating in Nome.             www.travelguidesalaska.com


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