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WHERE HISTORY, HOSPITALITY AND HEART STILL MATTER IN FAIRBANKS

There are restaurants you visit for a quick
meal, and then there are restaurants that
become woven into the identity of a community.
In Fairbanks, two such institutions are The Turtle
Club and The Pump House Restaurant & Saloon
— restaurants where Alaska history, hospitality,
and exceptional food sit comfortably at the
same table.
At the center of both is Tony Carter, a
man who never planned on becoming one
of Fairbanks’ most recognizable restaurant
owners. Originally from Las Vegas, Carter spent
years in the South playing music and running a
bar in South Carolina before life unexpectedly
rerouted him north.
Carter’s wife, who is from Alaska, was
pregnant, and they thought it would be a
good idea to be close to family. “I got here
and thought, ‘Two years. That’s as long as I’m
staying,” Carter laughed. “Then something
happened. The winter breakup in spring, the
green-up seeming to happen in a day, the
people. I fell in love with it.”
Today, he cannot imagine leaving Alaska.
Finding a Home at the Turtle Club
Carter’s path into the restaurant industry
in Fairbanks began almost by accident. His snow crab, but there is nothing like king,” he than The Turtle Club, thanks in part to a chef
mother-in-law had worked at The Turtle Club said. Carter describes as exceptionally creative.
for decades and encouraged him to help the But serving king crab has become increasingly “We’ve got everything from elk to ossobuco,
aging owner, who needed support keeping the difficult in recent years as Alaska’s crab industry which is an Italian dish featuring beef shanks
longtime establishment afloat. Initially reluctant has struggled with closures, labor shortages, braised with wine and broth and served over
to return to restaurant work after burning out and soaring costs. Carter explained that menu polenta, which is just a fancy way to say grits,”
in the Lower 48, Carter finally agreed to “just prices have climbed dramatically simply to keep said Carter.
try it.” the item available. One of his personal favorites is blackened
What he found surprised him. Even so, guests continue returning for the halibut served over sweet corn risotto.
“It was wonderful,” he said. “Everybody was comfort, consistency, and personality that “That’s the kind of thing where you eat it and
so great. It’s a completely different vibe from define the restaurant. think, ‘Wow. I wish I could cook this at home.’”
anywhere else I’ve been, and what made it The Pump House: A Fairbanks Landmark Inside, the restaurant’s famous saloon
better were the guests—the regulars.” If The Turtle Club offers rustic Alaska remains one of its greatest attractions. The
By late 2019, Carter finalized an agreement hospitality, The Pump House feels like stepping massive mahogany bar was transported from
to purchase the restaurant—timing that, in directly into Alaska’s history. Kansas City years ago, while the antique pool
hindsight, came with its own special challenge. Situated on the banks of the Chena River, the table arrived by way of the Chena River in the
“The universe was like, ‘Oh, you sweet, naive sprawling property blends manicured lawns, 1800s.
man. Here’s a virus.’” historic architecture, and one of the most iconic “It looks like a saloon. You walk in, and it’s like
COVID brought staffing shortages, supply saloons in interior Alaska. you’re stepped back in time,” Carter said.
chain chaos, and uncertainty, but Carter Carter initially resisted the idea of buying The More Than a Meal
adapted. At one point, The Turtle Club reduced Pump House as he had already wrestled with the What stands out most about Carter is
operations to a small sandwich menu staffed challenges of The Turtle Club’s aging building. not simply his enthusiasm for food, but his
by only a handful of employees while gradually “It was such a larger establishment, plus if you appreciation for the people who walk through
rebuilding its kitchen and team. buy The Pump House, you have to keep it The the doors and for the staff who feel like family.
Rather than focusing on frustration, Carter Pump House because it’s so renowned, you He talks about restaurants not as businesses
remembers the creativity and camaraderie that don’t turn it into something else.” but as communities where guests, servers,
emerged during those difficult months. But the idea lingered. bartenders, and cooks all become part of a
“We’ve got to make it work, and we’ve got Eventually, Carter partnered with another shared experience.
four people, so let’s do it,” he recalled. local restaurant owner and several friends and In a fast-paced tourism economy, Carter still
Rustic Fine Dining, Alaska Style purchased The Pump House in 2022. believes hospitality should feel personal.
Ask Carter to describe The Turtle Club, and The learning curve was immediate. “Restaurants have souls. Even on the most
he does not begin with the menu or the décor. “I thought I had made a huge mistake. One stressful days, when the breaker blows on
He talks about atmosphere. restaurant is a lot. Two restaurants are extreme,” Memorial Day weekend, or we have a 911
“Rustic fine dining. Very relaxed environment,” Carter admitted. emergency because we run out of meatballs,
he explained. The previous owner remained temporarily running two restaurants is the greatest
The restaurant has become known for its fast to help with the transition, and Carter quickly adventure ever.”
service, loyal local following, and an iconic salad discovered the nonstop pace required to And perhaps that is why both restaurants
bar, which Carter proudly noted continues to be operate such a large property. continue resonating so deeply with locals and
voted among the best in Alaska. “She was a 70-year-old speed walker,” he visitors alike. In a state famous for rugged
Its menu focuses on classic Alaskan joked. “She told me, you’ve got to keep up.” wilderness, larger-than-life landscapes, and
steakhouse staples: prime rib, halibut, king crab, Dining Beside the River weather extremes, The Turtle Club and Pump
and lobster. Today, The Pump House has evolved into House remind travelers that the greatest human
Carter still remembers tasting his first Alaskan far more than simply a restaurant. Weddings, connection happens around a dinner table.
king crab after moving north. Sunday brunch, holiday events, and live music For hours and menus, visit www.
“It was like an amazing experience, honestly. now regularly fill the property. turtleclubfairbanks.com and www.pumphouse.
Up to that point, I had only eaten dungeness or The menu offers a broader culinary range com

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