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talk to trish
TRISH WITH A GRAIN OF SALT
OUR BAKING AND PASTRY EDITOR IS BACK TO ANSWER YOUR BAKING QUESTIONS,
INCLUDING THE PURPOSE OF SALT AND CREAM OF TARTAR IN RECIPES AND HOW
TO KEEP YOUR CAKES MOIST!
What does cream of tartar do in recipes? moisture and extend shelf life. It can baking up dry, you may need to assess
also affect or, in the case of finishing other factors like oven calibration,
That cream of tartar in your pantry is
salts, add texture. When it comes to ingredient ratios, mixing methods, and
multitalented. The seemingly simple
bread, it plays an even more essential more. For more moist, tender cake
acidic white powder is a byproduct of the
role. Salt controls yeast activity, ideas, look through our pudding cakes
wine-making process. It’s often favored
impacts crust color, and strengthens story on page 59.
as a stabilizer. Added to whipped egg
the gluten structure, allowing dough to
whites, like in the Essential . . . Meringue
hold carbon dioxide efficiently. The salt How do I get a lemon curd tart to set
(page 33), cream of tartar enables
sweet spot for breads typically sits at without using cornstarch?
the egg whites to achieve maximum
1.8% to 2% based on total flour weight. Part of what makes lemon curd lovely
volume. It simultaneously stabilizes and
Thus, for bread, and really all baked is its simplicity. Lemon zest and juice,
strengthens the network of bubbles
goods, precise salt measurements make eggs (and/or egg yolks), granulated
formed while whipping, allowing them to
a difference. Our From the Pantry sugar, butter, and maybe a touch of salt
hold water and air rather than deflate.
feature (page 4) dedicated to this get whisked together to create a tart
Beyond meringues, this can benefit
crystalline compound is an excellent yet sweet substance. Cornstarch need
other whipped egg white-based items
place to find more information! not apply and can, in fact, cloud your
like sponge cakes and soufflés. Cream
of tartar can also impact the color of curd’s gorgeous jewel tone. If your tart
How can I keep my cakes moist
baked goods. For instance, angel food isn’t setting up, it could be that your
without having to use simple syrup on
cakes made with cream of tartar appear curd simply needs to cook for longer.
them?
whiter than those made without. Cream Some tart recipes will cook the curd to
of tartar can help prevent sugar from We all know a moist cake tastes like about 170°F (77°C); the curd is then
crystallizing, and mixed with baking soda, sweet victory, but a dry one is the added to the crust, followed by a brief
definition of devastating. That said, a stint in the oven. Others may cook the
it makes for a suitable baking powder
simple syrup—though a nice addition— curd to a slightly higher temperature
substitute. Snickerdoodle cookies’
signature tang and chewy texture? Thank is not a must for moist cake layers. of 180°F (82°C) to 182°F (83°C) if
cream of tartar for that, too. If your layers are already coming out it’s just getting poured into a crust to
moist, be sure to cool, finish, and store chill and set. Now, be aware that these
Is salt important in my baked goods? them properly. Frosting and filling egg-based mixtures can start to curdle
layers once cool is a great way to lock in when cooked past 185°F (85°C). Either
Although recipes may call for small
moisture. Opting for luscious or creamy way, it’s a good idea to strain your curd
amounts, salt is pretty vital in baking.
fillings like custards or jams can help to keep things nice and smooth. If your
First, it’s a flavor enhancer; when
add extra moisture sans simple syrup. curd still isn’t as thick as desired, you
added to baked goods, it brightens
Need to frost another day? No sweat. may need to increase or adjust your egg
and balances everything, from deep
Just wrap cooled layers tightly in plastic content. You can try adding an egg yolk
chocolaty notes to delicate sweetness.
wrap to keep them from drying out; or removing 1 or 2 egg whites. It may
Leave it out, and you’ll likely notice
these can stand at room temperature take some tinkering, but getting that
your treats taste flat. Salt, like sugar,
for up to 5 days. If your layers are clean slice will be oh so worth it. •
is also hygroscopic, helping to retain
Have a baking question for Trish? Email us at bakefromscratch@hoffmanmedia.com and your question could be featured in our next issue!
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