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Today, some traditional ensaymada employ a three-stage sponge-and-dough method. ENSAYMADAS
Others take a more streamlined straight-dough approach. Beyond lard, ensaymada Makes 16 ensaymadas
could now include butter, margarine, oil, or a mix of a few fats. Some may even
involve potato water or mashed potatoes, which promote a soft texture. After rising, Get a taste of the Philippines, no airplane
the dough is divided. Each portion is rolled thin and brushed with fat. A sprinkling of ticket needed. Our Baking & Pastry Editor’s
cheese sometimes follows, helping to distinguish the layers, before the dough gets take on this beloved Filipino pastry features
rolled into a rope and coiled. (In some areas, the dough ropes are twisted for a double- a super-soft bread base crowned with a

coiled effect.) These spirals are then placed in fluted molds or spread on baking sheets. browned butter-sugar spread and savory

After a final proof, they’re baked, cooled, and coated in butter, sugar, and cheese.
Cheddar cheese. The sweet-salty combo
is perfect for any occasion, from special
Several ensaymada interpretations exist. Alongside bready Spanish-style versions, holidays to an everyday afternoon snack.
there are also now ultra-soft, almost cake-like iterations, and even stuffed options

filled with everything from ube (purple yam) to coconut. The type of ensaymada you 3 to 3¼ cups (375 to 406 grams)
encounter can hinge on locale. At the corner panaderia, ensaymadas are affordable, all-purpose flour, divided

flat coils finished with just margarine and sugar. Travel to Pampanga, and you’ll find ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar

the province’s cemada are big, boldly flavored, and richly colored due to ample egg 1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams)
yolks, butter, and cheese. A wooden rod is used to roll and hang the dough, stretching instant yeast*
it thinner for a flakier result. Meanwhile, in Bulacan, their large enseimada come 2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt

adorned with slices of salted duck egg and Chinese ham.
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk
¼ cup (60 grams) water
Each ensaymada has its own diehard devotees. Within my family alone, what and who ¼ cup (56 grams) refined coconut oil,

makes the best ensaymadas is an ongoing debate. Everyone has their own favorite room temperature, roughly cut into
bakery—Conti’s, Hizon’s, and Mary Grace are among the top contenders. My parents ½- to ¾-inch chunks
and I have waged spirited dinner discussions merely on whether Cheddar, Parmesan, 3 large egg yolks (56 grams), room
or Edam makes the best garnish. On top of that, ensaymadas undeniably hold a special temperature
place in Filipino culture. Many associate ensaymadas with holidays like Easter and 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted
Christmas. Its delicate crumb structure is steeped in history and festive memories.
butter, cubed, softened, and divided
Sugary Browned Butter Topping (recipe
Many families have heirloom recipes inherited from their lolas (grandmothers). And I follows)

know from growing up, there is no topping a lola’s recipe. Instead, what I offer is just Garnish: finely shredded sharp white

my own proud ensaymada interpretation. Taking up where my Grandpa Helding left Cheddar cheese (see Notes)
off, I first focused on the bread itself. Pure butter tests, though tender, lacked that

same melt-in-your-mouth quality. Through research, I figured there was a reason 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with

several ensaymada recipes turned to shortening or oil. I, therefore, used a combo of the paddle attachment, beat 1 cup
coconut oil for similar gluten-preventing, shelf life-extending properties mixed with (125 grams) flour, sugar, yeast, and salt at

some butter for its irreplaceable flavor. A low baking temperature of 300°F (150°C) low speed until combined.

then ensured my ensaymadas also had an ultra-soft exterior. Beyond texture, keeping 2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk and
the process unintimidating was another goal. A straight-dough method made these ¼ cup (60 grams) water over medium
ensaymadas easy to enjoy on the same day. As far as toppings, I kept things classic heat until an instant-read thermometer

with a slight twist, adding in browned butter—one of my favorite flavors—to give registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C).
these ensaymadas a distinct, nutty depth.
Add warm milk mixture to flour mixture;

beat at medium speed for 2 minutes,
More new takes are also now available thanks to bakers around the globe. In the stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add
Philippines, Baby Pat Breads—a home-based operation in Santa Rosa run by 2 cups (250 grams) flour, coconut oil,

Pearl M. de Guzman—creates colorfully packaged ensaymadas in creative flavors egg yolks, and 3 tablespoons (42 grams)
including speculoos and Nutella. Stateside, Filipino expat Chari Heredia-Reyes heads butter; beat at medium-low speed just until
Ensaymada Project in North Hollywood, California, adapting her mother’s recipe to combined. Scrape sides of bowl.
craft out-of-the-box options like Oreo and red velvet. Head to eastern Canada and 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment.

you’ll find Ensanemada in Toronto, Ontario, helmed by Charmaine Gadea and her Beat at medium-low speed until a soft,
partner; their lineup lists Mango Tango and Matcha Made in Heaven, among others. shiny, sticky dough forms, about
Meanwhile, across the Atlantic, home-based bakery Pan de London is bringing 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl

ensaymada flavors like espresso mocha and Thai tea Biscoff to England.

and dough hook; add up to remaining

¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon
Whether you decide to bake your own or try one of these artisanal offerings, your (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too loose

ensaymada experience is yours to personalize. If my family is any sort of reflection, or overly sticky. (Be careful not to add too

ensaymadas continue to be a means of establishing identity and individuality as much much flour; this dough is supposed to be

as they’re a symbol of our shared history and heritage. My hope is that this recipe quite soft and sticky.)
sparks memories for you and your loved ones, too. Whether you choose to share or 4. Scrape sides of bowl; gently pull up and
shamelessly hoard your ensaymadas is up to you. fold sides of dough to form a rough ball.