Page 264 - Brion Toss - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice
P. 264

Riding Turns
             After you’ve made enough full turns (12 for this
             diameter wire) so that the seizing is longer than it
             is wide, angle the stick down so that the wire eases
             onto the first layer to begin a series of riding turns
             (Figure 6-66C). Apply the riding turns snugly too,
             but not so much that they displace the round turns
             beneath. As you progress, you will note that the
             crooked face underneath makes the riding turns lie
             horizontal on both faces. Elegant.
                The wire should continue to feed smoothly right
             to the bottom of the seizing. When you run out of
             turns to cover, pinch the bottom turn tightly with
             one hand to keep it from slipping, and remove the
             seizing stick with the other while your assistant
             removes the rigger’s screw.

             Frapping Turns                               Figure 6-66G. The second frapping turn crosses over
             Next, one of you hefts a scratch-awl spike and  the first at the bottom of the seizing (upper drawing).
             pushes it between the two parts of the wire rope,  The end then recrosses its own part at the end of the
             immediately above then immediately below the seiz-  second frapping turn (the top of the seizing). Haul
             ing (Figure 6-66D). It may be necessary to pound it  this turn taut with the mallet also, again massaging
             through with a mallet in order to make holes large  slack toward the mallet as you haul.
             enough to pass the seizing wire through. Be sure the
             flat tip of the spike is vertical so that it will not cut
             the service as it goes through.             mallet, then use a spike handle or other rounded tool
                Pull the spike out and thread the end of the wire  to “massage” slack in the frapping turn toward the
             into the lower hole (Figure 6-66E). When there’s  mallet. Just press down and slide it along the seizing.
             just a small bight of wire left on the front face of   How hard do you haul on the mallet? Hard
             the seizing, fair carefully and take up the rest of the  enough to slightly stretch the wire, but not hard
             slack sharply to set the wire. Do this by grabbing  enough to be in danger of wasting all your work  by
             onto the wire a couple of feet from the seizing with a  breaking the wire. This happens. You just have  to
             pair of pliers. Keeping tension on the standing part,  get to know your own strength and that of  the wire.
             thread the wire end through the upper hole and once   Pinch the seizing again with your hand to hold
             more through the lower hole, snapping each time to  what you’ve gained, widen the holes a little with the
             set the wire. Watch your fingers.           little spike if necessary, and pass the end around
                Pinching the seizing so that slack can’t work  again. Cross over the first frapping turn to bind it
             back, bend on your—Mallet de Mer—and take a  top and bottom (Figure 6-66G), then apply a bit
             light strain (Figure 6-66F), just enough to hold  more tallow and heave and massage this second
             things in place. Apply a little tallow or shortening  frapping turn taut.
             where this first frapping turn goes around the cor-
             ners of the seizing, then gradually increase the strain  Finishing
             on the mallet. The wire will flatten and start to move,  Work the tip of your spike under the frapping
             and as it does your assistant should lightly tap the  turns below the seizing wire end. Remove the spike
             last riding turn to work any slack in it toward the  and thread the wire through the space it made

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