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The museum exhibits relating to the sinking and the monument in the street to its vic-
tims are among the most moving displays in the town. Among the facts revealed is that
when the quartermaster on the U-20 received the order to fire he refused to pass it on
to the torpedo room, unwilling to take part in an attack on women and children. He was
subsequently court-martialled and imprisoned for three years.
There is a “next year in Jerusalem” aspect to Cobh; it draws pilgrims from around the
world. The exodus from the Emerald Isle that was kicked off by the Great Potato Famine
in 1845 was still strong more than 100 years later, in the era of the mighty ocean liners.
Outside the Heritage Centre is a statue of Annie Moore and her two brothers; she was
the first immigrant to be processed in 1892 on New York’s Ellis Island, the doorway
beside the welcoming arms of the Statue of Liberty. For millions of Irish – an estimated
2½ million of the 6½ million who set off in search of something better – the final sight-
ing of their homeland, as they took their leave for the US, Canada, Australia and even
South America and South Africa, was a lingering backward glance at the receding shores
of Cobh (or Queenstown) and its coast. Few returned, leaving that task to their many
descendants.
They drop by, as an extension to an obligatory Ring of Kerry jaunt, or on a train that
whips you down from Cork in less than half an hour.
They, and you, are drawn inexorably to the original pier where the uncertain but hope-
filled passengers boarded ferries to take them out to ships waiting in the harbour. They
did not take a drink at the Titanic Bar in the garishly yellow port administration building
but you can, as you can in a series of warm and welcoming pubs along streets that have
played host to hordes in tumultuous times.
You may need a drink after scaling the heights to the cathedral, where the carillon, if
not actually playing Dance of the Cuckoos, is inspiring the song’s infectious passage
through your mind.
Wesley’s sinkhole of sinners seems to have survived intact, if those who waylaid me
in my meander though the public houses, seemingly intent upon being propelled out
of them later in the evening, were any indication. Fine citizens all, of what was once a
crossroad of the world that now has just enough fame to keep it content.
In that, it could have the edge on Rudolph Valentino.
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Beach Clean Carrigaloe Sunday 3rd February
Hi nature lovers! And happy new year!
Let’s meet for our first beach clean of the year by Carrigaloe (parking) at 12pm Sunday 3rd.
This is an open event, everyone is welcome. If you have your own gloves, please bring them
with you. Suggestion: bring good shoes and a rain jacket just in case.
If any question, please let me know. If you have no car and need a lift, please feel free to
contact in advance also.
Contact: 0851559269. I’m looking forward to meeting you all and thank you in advance for
your precious help :)
Catherine for Clean Coast Cobh