Page 20 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

when applied to a 300-pound load, three strands of
that material might conceivably have an elongation of
3 percent. When using ropes and knots for anchoring,
these kinds of maneuvers are used to create an anchor
that minimizes stretching.

Accessory Cord Loops

This text also will describe the use of 5mm or 6mm
nylon accessory cord loops. These are small loops of
nylon used to tie the Prusik and autoblock friction
hitches. An accessory cord loop is never used as a critical
link in any climbing, rappelling, or self-rescue system. So
a loop with a smaller diameter is tolerable because the
relative size of the accessory cord loop and the climbing
rope results in a more effective friction hitch. A friction
hitch or other connection with accessory cord loops
should not be the sole connection to a climbing system.

Even though accessory cord loops are only 5mm nylon,
they are never used as critical links, and the smaller
diameter helps them “grab” larger diameter ropes.
Don’t put your friends in a “PICL” (Prusik Is Critical
Link).

Slings

Unfortunately, ropes and cords can’t do everything
climbers need them to do. In particular, climbers need
smaller loops of nylon to create quick attachments

The Rope 7