Page 81 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

Extensions and Tethers: Extending
the Belay Loop

Climbers often need an anchoring tool other than the
climbing rope itself, like when cleaning a sport climb
or doing a multistage rappel or descent. It is possible
in all of these scenarios to clip the belay loop directly
into a master point with a locking carabiner. However,
such a small distance between the climber’s body and
the anchor is often unmanageable. So climbers have
learned to create an extension of the belay loop that
has the same essential properties: a redundant con-
struction and monolithic strength (stronger than any
conceivable force the climbing system could create).
With such a task in mind, the 48-inch sling proves
itself to be apt. Basketing a 48-inch sling through the
hard points of the harness and closing the basket with
an overhand knot creates an attachment point that is
materially redundant and has at least 30kN of strength,
just like the belay loop.

The use of a double-length sling can create an
attachment point that has the same essential
properties as a belay loop: strength and redundancy.
68 CLIMBING: KNOTS