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Jersey Blue










                                                                                                                                                                                                    Bleuchâtel


                                                                                                                                      have  to  be  happy,  otherwise  you  get  stressed   not  there,  and  I  was  received  by  his  son,  and
                                                                                                                                      cow  milk”,  he  says.  His  talent  and  work  ethic   we had an interesting discussion rather than a
                                                                                                                                      enable  him  to  produce  excellent,  sustainable   question-and-answer exchange. The son showed
                                                                                                                                      cheese, in partnership with nature he refines his   me  his  father’s  medals,  his  world  awards  for
                                                                                                                                      craft to precision that is respectful of nature and   Jersey Blue, among others, and the cheeses he
              kandinsky on your plate                                                                                                 animals.  The  documentary  shows  this  loving   named after his wife and children. I was shown
                                                                                                                                                                             all sacred blue cheeses and invited to taste them
                                                                                                                                      production in a way that inspires us to think and
              – or Swiss cheesemakers waltzing with colours                                                                           feel more deeply about our environment if we   all, and the taste was divine. Jersey cheese is a   Willi Schmid
                                                                                                                                                                             buttery blue cheese made with Jersey cow milk.
                                                                                                                                      want to tackle the much-needed changes to live
              (Some tips on how to surprise your guests at the festive table)                                                         sustainably in the world.              It tastes creamy and delicious, with black pepper   medal for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Jersey Bleu
                                                                                                                                                                             notes from the blue mould. The distribution of
                                                                                                                                      His most successful cheese is Jersey Blue. It is   blue mould is very free and organic, a product
              By Evelina Rioukhina                                                                                                    not an ordinary blue cheese; it is a designed one.   of  hand-ladling  curds  into  a  mould,  creating
                                                                                                                                      Willi crafts his cheese the way a great artist crafts   pockets  where  the  two  types  of  blue  develop.
                               Painting  with  the  Blue,  or  Kandinsky  on   values of Switzerland.                                 his paintings, making them impossible to truly   Willi  Schmid  says  about  his  cheese  that  “...it
                               your  plate.  Haute  couture,  haute  joaillerie,                                                      reproduce. His own production secrets are unlike   has  an  unmistakable,  deliciously  nutty  aroma
                               haute  horlogerie...  These  names  usually  refer   When I saw some posters of his cheese, I was      any  other  cheesemaker  in  the  world,  making   with  a  slightly  smoky  note.  The  paste  is  soft,
                               to  something  exclusive,  outstanding,  unusual   sure that they were pieces of art, reminding me     Jersey Blue unique. He makes four or five types   very  creamy,  and  has  a  yellowish  colour:  this
                               or  difficult  to  achieve,  requiring  special  effort,   of Kandinsky, or Chagall. It was unimaginable   of blues, the largest number any cheesemaker has   is the characteristic of Jersey milk with its high
                               investment and artistry. But what about ‘haute   to believe that those are actually the cheeses of     invented, each “crafted” in a different design of   beta-carotene content.” We also discussed some
                               fromagerie’? Have you ever heard of it? If not,   Willi  Schmid.  They  are  as  beautiful  as  avant-  “haute fromagerie”. Blue cheeses are among the   of the secrets that turn Willi’s Jersey Blue into
                               then  I  am  coining  the  term,  as  that  is  exactly   garde paintings; they can be contemplated and   trickiest to produce, with a fine balance between   “Kandinsky paintings” and why it is not like any
                               how  I  felt  when  visiting  many  brilliant  Swiss   are  inspirational,  thought-provoking.  The  only   fermentation and the introduction of a fungus,   other blue cheese in the world. Of course, those
                               cheesemakers. Some of them are big stars in the   difference is that not only can one look at them     and Willi Schmidt is a true artist in his judgments   are  their  family  secrets  and  heritage,  and  they
                               cheese galaxies, creating wonders. Among these   and feel their impact, but it is also possible to     and  decisions.  His  famous  Jersey  Blue,  have   will be kept with my high respect and admiration
                               stars, however, one shines brightest, and that is   taste  and  eat  them  and  thus  appreciate  them   achieved world recognition, such as the World   for the work of the Grand Maestro.
                               Willi Schmid.                         differently.                                                     Cheese Award in 2014. This made Willi Schmid
                                                                                                                                      and his Jersey Blue a sensation, a “coqueluche” of   Willi Schmid is not the only Swiss cheese-maker
                               He has been called a wonder, a miracle, a cheese   Willi  Schmid  is  a  poet  or  artist  by  his  forms   cheese-lovers and world gastronomy.   who  is  waltzing  with  the  blue.  In  fact,  blue
                               genius,  or  cheese  Maestro.  Someone  once   and  images,  and  especially  by  his  feelings                                               cheese was re-invented in Switzerland not that
                               named him a “cheese whisperer,” which seemed   and  perceptions.  No  wonder  he  inspired  a          Being fascinated by this person and his artistic   long ago, by Didier Germain, the owner of the
                               particularly  apt  as  he  whispers  his  talent  not   documentary, telling the story of his extraordinary   blue cheese “paintings,” as well as feeling a huge   dairy “Fromagerie des Martels” near Neuchâtel.
                               only to cheese, but to nature and to everything   gift (“Willi Schmid – Master of Cheese”, 2022).      respect for his strong patriotic values and deep   At  the  1990s  Didier  Germain  travelled  to
                               that surrounds him because he is such an artistic   Every morning, he decides what cheese he will      empathy with nature, I decided to visit him in   France to learn how to make blue cheese. But
                               person. He not only crafts and creates his cheese,   produce based on feelings: whether the milk is    Lichtensteig, a small town in the Canton of St   the  producers  did  not  share  their  secrets,  and
                               he “paints” it. He himself says he breathes into   flowery or with a hint of caramel. He can also tell   Gallen.  He  creates  his  masterpieces  here  and   Germain  decided  to  experiment.  It  took  him
                               it not only his love for nature but also his love   how the cow was feeling, its temper and mood,      runs  a  shop  where  people  can  taste  and  buy   several  years  and  many  tests  before  he  made
                               for his motherland, his country: the roots and   and knows their names and habits.  “The cows          directly  from  him.  When  I  arrived,  Willi  was   and  registered  his  first  successful  blue  cheese.






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