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                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Kohle–Hexerkäse


                                      Blue Brain















                                                                                                                                      Pink Queen







                               He had to create his own piercing equipment to   and other avant-garde painters like Kandinsky         striking pink colour made of absolutely natural   quickly  becoming  the  favourite  Swiss  cheese.
                               introduce the mould, which is still used to this   or Chagall. Jumi’s Blue Brain or “Blau Hirni” - in   ingredients?  It  is  delicious,  and  when  I  tasted   It is, however, so delicious that it starts to be in
                               day. His Bleuchâtel (formerly Bleu Suisse) has   addition to its distinctive blue colours, is also a   it  first  I  immediately  guessed  that  it  might   great demand here too, especially to bring joy
                               “noble  blood  and  a  tender  heart”,  and  is  only   piece of sculpture. The creation of Jurg Wyss and   have been made by a specialist in Appenzeller.   and colour to tables during the festive period.
                               produced by this dairy, but can be purchased in   Mike Glauser from the Emmenthal valley, it is        I  cannot  explain  why  I  guessed  so;  it  was  just   “Witchcrafting”  (or  not  so)  with  the  Black.
                               specialised shops. I visited his dairy in Les Pons-  the most unique blue, earning its name because    something I felt. I therefore felt vindicated when   Black  cheese  is  reminiscent  of  the  Dark  Arts,
                               des-Martels, and was surprised to see in such a   of the resemblance to a brain, or perhaps a huge     I later discovered that the person who invented   and it is no coincidence that one black cheese
                               remote area a long queue of people who came   ball of blue ice cream. The form is not sculpted;        this  coloured  cheese  was  the  2018  Wisconsin   is  called  Kohle–Hexerkäse:  witch  cheese.  The
                               to  buy  his  cheese,  from  its  home  -  Bleuchâtel   it  develops  during  the  maturing  process,  and,   USA  World  Champion  for  Appenzeller:  Jürg   method  does  not involve magic,  however, and
                               maison. It is really different there, the “maison”   despite its weird blue exterior, it does not have   Stadlemann.  I  tasted  the  cheese  that  won  him   is  actually  more  straightforward  than  any  of
                               Bleuchâtel is unbeatable!             blue cheese inside. The mould is merely a bizarre                the  championship,  and  it  was  superb,  but  this   the  above-described  cheeses,  as  the  blackness
                                                                     covering,  enhanced  by  a  transparent  plastic                 pink cheese called Pink Queen is no less good.   is caused by charcoal, giving it a subtly smoky
                               Blue  de  Combremont,  invented  by  the   dome, and its taste will blow you away.                     The colour is a very striking pink. Stadelmann   flavour. This cheese is produced by the Kaeserei-
                               cheesemaker Michael Hanke is the winner of the                                                         invented this bright pink cheese at the request of   Marbach  cheesemakers  from  the  Canton  of
                               Supergold  World  Cheese  Award  2022  and  the   Commonly,  people  think  of  blue  cheese  as       the Asian markets, who wanted a natural Swiss   Luzern,  Entlebuch  UNESCO  biosphere  area,
                               silver in 2023. It is also an absolutely outstanding   French, British or Italian, and not many know   cheese in that colour.                 and seems that the charcoal is resistant to acid
                               cheese, but it is produced by traditional methods,   about Swiss blues, but in fact they are the best:                                        and so does not provoke chemical reactions in
                               by piercing the cheese to introduce the mould.   please  forgive  me,  my  international  colleagues   I  visited  Jürg  Stadelmann  at  his  home  in   the cheese. It is a natural product and charcoal-
                               The method and timing of the piercing can differ,   for saying so! This is not just my opinion: they   Tottenburg  (Canton  of  St.Gallen),  and  I  was   burning is an old tradition in Entlebuch, so it
                               as can the fungus used: usually it is Roquefort   are  world  champions  with  world  awards  (and   Blue de Combremont  unsurprised  that  he  does  not  live  far  from   counts as a natural production speciality of this
                               penicillium, but not invariably. In addition, the   the recent World Award Championship held just   Pirouetting with the Pink  the  cheese  genius  Willi  Schmid.  Tottenburg   UNESCO biosphere area. I am not sure if the
                               rennet may vary: raw or pasteurized milk can be   recently in Bern, proved that again). Their talent,   Pink Queen  is  famous  for  cheese  production,  outstanding   black  colour  is  attractive,  but  children  would
                               used, and different shapes of cheese also affect   craft and creativity, stemming from their lives,    cheeses  and  brilliant  cheesemakers.  Jürg   probably love it: even the name will be attractive
                               flavour - round, square, big, small – and course   their rituals, their cows and their pastures; a part   Kohle–Hexerkäse  Stadlemann is definitely one of these and could   to them. I found the colour and idea of charcoal
                               consistency may vary from soft to hard, and most   of  the  deep  traditions  of  this  unique  country,   be called a magician of colours. He is the first to   off-putting at first, but, when visiting a cheese
                               cheese artists use variations on these methods,   and  I  firmly  maintain,  after  having  conducted   make bright pink cheese, a very difficult process   exhibition  and  experiencing  his  other  cheeses,
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                               to list here a few more: Blue de Grangeneuve,,   extensive  research  and  visited  more  than  a      which took several months and many attempts   and later visiting Entlebuch and learning about
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                               de Fribourg, des Mosses, de Lucerne, Aschwill   thousand talented cheesemakers, that the Swiss         to  get  a  colour  that  does  not  fade  or  provoke   the tradition, I tasted it and now find I love it.
                               Bio  Bleu,  Bleu  de  Tessin,  Bleu  de  Martigny,   Blues are the best! If I have not yet convinced   unwanted  chemical  reactions.  He  tried  the
                               Bleu du Valais, Bleu de Solliat, Bleu du Village,   you,  I  will  prove  it  through  my  forthcoming   obvious  candidates:  beetroot,  strawberries,  but   Adding pink and black cheeses to your cheese
                               Blue Dream, Bleu de Lenk, Bleu Geiss, Bleu de   encyclopaedia of the Swiss cheeses.                    they either faded or affected the taste. He finally   platter will definitely bring something special to
                               Rossinière, Fleur bleu de Combremon, Bleu du                                                           came up with an all-natural formula which is, of   your table and will surprise all your guests, local
                               Sapalet, Le Bô.                       Pirouetting  with  the  Pink.  Producing  blue                   course, a secret, although he was kind enough   and foreign alike. Add Jersey Blue and it will be
                                                                     cheeses  is  a  challenging  task,  but  Swiss                   to  tell  me.  I  will  keep  his  confidence  but  can   a masterpiece, as if you are bringing Kandinsky
                               One interesting cheese of this “Blue Period” is   cheesemakers  are  succeeding  to  meet  it.         confirm that it was achieved with purely natural   to your plate.
                               the  Blue  Brain,  which  surpasses  even  Picasso   However,  can  you  imagine  a  cheese  of  a     ingredients.  It  was  hugely  successful  in  Asia;

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