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126                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                      A BOXCAR TO PALENQUE                          127


          sorrow, two for joy and six for attack  a cold evening sky.  This comatose
          and was rescued from serious head  drunk delivered  in safety  to  the
          pecking by sweet Anglican girls from  doorstep of dismayed relatives with
          a youth  camp nearby. Smuggled  not even a thank you.
          under  cover of  darkness into the      That evening I crossed a turbulent
          camp, I slept in the woodshed and  river, hopping from rock to rock to
          ate shepherd’s pie and custard tarts  keep my feet dry. And then to lose my
          smuggled from the kitchen.           footing and plunge in, boots and all.
            In a small town in  Texas a car  One of them floated downstream in
          careened to a screeching halt and  the strong current and with one bare
          bounced onto the sidewalk. A whisky  foot I squelched to an off-season ski
          bottle waved from the side window  resort and was given a pair of shoes
          in greeting from a sozzled driver.     and a free cabin for night.
          Empty bottles and a spare wheel                 Arriving in what ap-
          were piled roof high on a jumble               peared to be the outskirts
          of clothes jam-packed in the                   of a township in Idaho with
          back seat. An alcoholic on                    night darkly approaching,
          the run from her husband                      I found two trees to swing
          and making her befuddled                    my hammock. To be jolted
          way to Colorado Springs. It                 awake at daybreak breathing                       Waiting for a ride in Louisiana.   This traveller made front-page news.
          was a distance of over a thousand           in the fumes of cars whizzing
          American kilometres and too good           around a traffic island in the                   Washington State in sight of snow-   border guards the next morning with
          to miss. I grabbed the wheel in panic    middle of town.                                    capped Mount Baker, I met students  a mug of coffee and a doughnut. In no
          as this tipsy lady zig-zagged from side   The front page of its newspaper                   complaining bitterly about a foolish  hurry to let me through, the officers,
          to side, sideswiping rose bushes and  showed a photograph of this travel-                   war and the  dreaded  draft. Their  not overly worked, wanted to hear my
          leaving a letterbox teetering at a crazy  ler from afar, sitting under a brolly             nation was intent on killing itself in  tales of adventuring.
          angle.                               for shade in the Idaho sun. A sign:                    the  war-torn country  of  Vietnam.     It was the summer of 1966 and I
            Self  preservation forced  me  to  AUSTRALIA TO CANADA was pinned                         To avoid a congestion of American  had 19 cents left. Not enough to buy
          take over the wheel and I drove day  to  my  pack.  New  Zealand was  not                   youth  at  the  main  borders  fleeing  a street  map when  I reached  Van-
          and night with an occasional shriek  well known and often mistaken for                      to  Canada, I walked  40 kilometres  couver  unless  I  could  find  another
          from the lady to stop at a liquor store  an American state. This celebrity                  inland to an obscure border post.    cent. My $1o had lasted 17 days on
          to replenish her supplies. At last the  status earned a bed for the night at                   Closed for the evening. I strung out  my journey from  Mexico  City  to
          welcome streets of Colorado Springs  the postmaster’s house.                                my hammock between veranda posts  Vancouver.
          appeared under the grey shadows of      Hiking along  a country  road in                    for an early night. To be woken by      I never drank buttermilk again.
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