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122                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                      A BOXCAR TO PALENQUE                          123
































                      Chichén Itzá with the observatory on the right.                                              The lid of Lord Pacal’s sarcophagus, Palenque.


          musical genre of the mariachis.      Salvador had a special technique for                   Uxmal, Chichén Itzá and Palenque.  bailed  out  of  the  boxcar at  a run
            Ricardo, noticing my visits were  parking in a space smaller than his                     The temple doorway at Chichén Itzá  within  a 15-kilometre  walk of  the
          becoming  less  frequent  at  the  res-  car.  He  would nudge  the  front  car             seemed a good place to camp in the  isolated site.
          taurant,  usually  because  I  couldn’t  forward and then push rearwards                    pouring rain. We used our tent for      Palenque emerged from a greenery
          afford  it,  commissioned  a  mural  the car at the back, doing this several                the first time to discover next morn-  of lush tropical jungle. A serene
          on the wall in  exchange for meals  times until he created a space in the                   ing that the rock used to belt tent  mystical air was discernible amidst the
          and beer. He wanted a brunette, a  street to fit in.                                        pegs  into  the  flinty                           ruins as we clambered
          blonde and a redhead scantily clad      At that time I was struck down by a                 soil was a carved face                            over the many carved
          in a beach  scene.  Jane Lawrence  mystery illness for several days until                   of a Mayan god.                                   stones  scattered  about,
          was one of the beach girls.          a painful penicillin jab, inexpertly                      The clickity-clack of                          undisturbed due to the
            Russell’s shipmates from  New  aimed by  Salvador to my  rear,                            a train slowed to walk-                           scarcity of roads.
          Zealand came to visit with nine of us  accelerated my recovery. Mainly for                  ing pace days later as                            In another two years,
          squeezing into  Salvador’s car for a  fear of getting another jab.                          we slung our packs through the open  tourists by the busloads would descend
          week of late nights and drinking. And   Using our  customary  mode of                       door of a boxcar. And with a skip we  on this tranquil site, clamouring for
          for  a  little  culture,  a  cramped  visit  transport, the trusty thumb, Russell           jumped in after them.                plastic Palenques from roadside stalls.
          to the ancient ruins of Teotihuacán,  and I set off for the Yucatan to vis-                    The  train rumbled through the  Eric Von Daniken, in his controversial
          50 kilometres northeast of the city.  it  the  magnificent  Mayan  ruins  of                deep jungle of Lacandon where we  Chariots  of  the  Gods, would later
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