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118                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                      A BOXCAR TO PALENQUE                          119


































                       The Tzotzil Maya community in the Chiapas.


          the trip nestled amongst coffee bags  back in one gulp every time some-
          in the back for the next three days.  one made a toast.
            We drove through quaint colonial      With sore heads  the  following
          Spanish  towns  in the  chilly  pine  day, we convalesced in Chapultepec
          forests of the Chiapas and visited the  Park, one of the largest parks in the
          Tzotzil Maya. A unique community  Western  Hemisphere.  Anne  gave
          with their own time zone, language  me a little  peck on the cheek as I
          and religion.                        nursed  a thumping  hangover and
            On reaching the capital,  Pepe  we were immediately pounced on by
          took us to  a mariachi bar where  the Park Gestapo for breaking a ‘law
          Mexicans  strummed  guitars  and  of a moral nature’. Dobbed in by a
          blew trumpets under large sombre-    small boy earning pocket money by
          ros swaying  in rhythm. They sang  spying on couples from the bushes.
          romantic songs on bended knee to        This morality squad claimed
          blushing  couples  and salt-rimmed
          glasses  of  tequila  were  knocked   Mayan ruins of Palenque, Mexico.
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