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112  AN EXILE OF THE MIND        A BOXCAR TO PALENQUE                          113






























 Puerto Barrios on the east coast of Guatemala.  My travelling gear for Central America.


 We were heading south through  culty finding a pension. Several girls   his entry. He stormed into the street  kind of decoy at night to stop them.
 central America. In the uninspiring  beckoned us from a poorly stocked   wearing only a towel and carrying a   We slept in cotton fields with the
 city of  Guatemala a Red Cross  soda bar and offered us accommo-  bar of soap, going from pension to  white  blobs  swaying  in  the  breeze
 ambulance carrying a doctor sped to  dation . They were students and two   pension for a free hot shower.  above our heads. To wake up one
 our pension. It caused a bit of a stir as I  of them gave up  their beds  for us.   Hitch-hiking through  Nicaragua  morning to discover cotton workers
 writhed in agony from Montezuma’s  Continuing our journey south, we   brought many curious stares at two  looking skywards to see from where
 Revenge after eating seafood. Its  awoke  in someone’s  front  garden   dust-covered hikers carrying heavy  we had  dropped. That  day  David
 suspicious flavour of heavily spiced  to the clatter of an ox cart returning   backpacks.  One evening, in the  caused a commotion in a river where
 seasoning was mistaken for a local  home. We quickly departed leaving   bright glare of headlights of a truck  we bathed.  He had swum naked
 delicacy.  Relieved  not be  carted  the owners scratching their heads.   we had hitched, a woman was seen  round a bend into the shrieks of
 away with sirens screaming, I made   Our accommodation in Central   stretched out horizontal on the cold  hysterical women doing the same.
 a resolution  not to eat  at cheap  America varied from cold saltwater   bitumen of the road.   David’s Spanish was learnt from
 restaurants ever again.  showers to coffin-like rooms. David   Our driver shot past with his foot  truck drivers who taught him how to
 The next morning, after eating a  was again in trouble when he took   hard on the  accelerator. Upset  by  ‘chat up’ local girls. He tried his hand
 hearty breakfast at a cheap restau-  a shower in the wrong pension next   his callousness we wanted to get out  at a fiesta in Managua. The girl fled
 rant, we set off towards the sparsely  door that  had  hot  water.  He  blew   and help but we were told it was too  in horror into the crowds with David
 populated  central highlands. On  his top when a ladder  was placed   dangerous to stop. Many trucks had  staring after her in bewilderment as
 reaching San Salvador we had diffi-  across the door the next day barring   been hijacked by bandits using this  nearby revellers laughed hysterically.
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