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114                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                      A BOXCAR TO PALENQUE                           115


                                                                                                         On reaching  Costa  Rica we
                                                                                                      planned to make a U-turn and head
                                                                                                      back. An English girl about to travel
                                                                                                      alone to  Mexico  was  persuaded  to
                                                                                                      hitch-hike with us for safety. David
                                                                                                      and I took it in turns to hitch-hike
                                                                                                      with Anne until we reached Mexico.
                                                                                                      It was a definite advantage to travel
                                                                                                      with  a  pretty  redhead.  Cars and
                                                                                                      trucks would screech to a halt, vying
                                                                                                      with one another to offer us rides.
                                                                                                         Truck drivers plied us with tequila
                                                                                                      at a roadside taverna to get us tipsy
                                                                                                      so  they  could  flirt  with  Anne.  They
                                                                                                      would croon love songs, get into     Anne and David in Central America.
                                                                                                      an argument, take a swing at one
                                                                                                      another and then shake hands and  crucified haze. He had just showered
                                                                                                      drink again. One by one they slid  in  his  clothes  and  stood  steaming
                                                                                                      off  their  chairs  in  a  drunken  heap.  dry like damp ginger shag drying its
                                                                                                      Anne patted them on the head as we  wings under the hot midday sun.
                                                                                                      walked out. She was quite  relieved     A frosty reception awaited us at
                                                                                                      we were travelling together and more  the consulate and we were surprised
                                                                                                      thankful we could hold our drink.    to  find  we  had  been  denied  visas
                                                                                                         We made rapid progress towards  for  Guatemala.  David had lost  his
                                                                                                      Mexico with this new arrangement.  temper  with  the  consul  earlier
                                                                                                      Sitting astride a freezer in the back  and was told to come back a week
                                                                                                      of a ute, we helped ourselves to ice  later. We stayed  at the crater lake
                                                                                                      cream as we drove through the swel-  of Ilopango where a volcanic island
                                                                                                      tering streets of San Salvador. David  rose majestically  from its centre.
                                                                                                      was spotted by the side of the road  Like many of the little-known places
                                                                                                      with arms outstretched, his beard-   we visited, it was soon to become a
                                                                                                      ed face turned towards the sky in a  popular tourist resort.
                                                                                                                                              With our passports  grudgingly
                                                                                                      Street market, Antigua, Guatemala.   stamped  we crossed the border
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