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114  AN EXILE OF THE MIND        A BOXCAR TO PALENQUE                          115


              On reaching  Costa  Rica we
           planned to make a U-turn and head
           back. An English girl about to travel
           alone to  Mexico  was  persuaded  to
           hitch-hike with us for safety. David
           and I took it in turns to hitch-hike
           with Anne until we reached Mexico.
           It was a definite advantage to travel
           with  a  pretty  redhead.  Cars and
           trucks would screech to a halt, vying
           with one another to offer us rides.
              Truck drivers plied us with tequila
           at a roadside taverna to get us tipsy
           so  they  could  flirt  with  Anne.  They
           would croon love songs, get into     Anne and David in Central America.
           an argument, take a swing at one
           another and then shake hands and  crucified haze. He had just showered
           drink again. One by one they slid  in  his  clothes  and  stood  steaming
           off  their  chairs  in  a  drunken  heap.  dry like damp ginger shag drying its
           Anne patted them on the head as we  wings under the hot midday sun.
           walked out. She was quite  relieved     A frosty reception awaited us at
           we were travelling together and more  the consulate and we were surprised
           thankful we could hold our drink.    to  find  we  had  been  denied  visas
              We made rapid progress towards  for  Guatemala.  David had lost  his
           Mexico with this new arrangement.  temper  with  the  consul  earlier
           Sitting astride a freezer in the back  and was told to come back a week
           of a ute, we helped ourselves to ice  later. We stayed  at the crater lake
           cream as we drove through the swel-  of Ilopango where a volcanic island
           tering streets of San Salvador. David  rose majestically  from its centre.
           was spotted by the side of the road  Like many of the little-known places
           with arms outstretched, his beard-   we visited, it was soon to become a
           ed face turned towards the sky in a  popular tourist resort.
                                                   With our passports  grudgingly
           Street market, Antigua, Guatemala.   stamped  we crossed the border
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