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120                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                      A BOXCAR TO PALENQUE                           121


































             I am not taking a souvenir from the Mayan ruins in Chichén Itzá.                                Me, Rosita, Phil and Russell in our apartment, Mexico City.


          Anne’s dress was too small for her and  above  dark  Mexican  heads  I  was                 was quickly found with the arrival  divorcees lived it up in luxury hotels,
          didn’t completely cover her thighs.  pushed along the sidewalk towards                      of Russell, a good friend from New  waiting for Mexicans who looked like
          Arms flailed in argument. We walked  black limousines  moving  slowly                       Zealand. It was located in a national  debonair stars from the 1920s.
          away and left them standing there.   towards us. A tall figure in an open                   monument building. A plaque to          I dated  Rosita, a waitress from
            We fancied a break at the seaside. A  car extended  a large  hand which  I                honour a  famous architect was  the restaurant, the better to learn the
          real-life toreador took us to Acapulco,  instinctively grasped. It belonged to              displayed proudly on the Spanish  language. Working long footsore hours
          describing in gory detail the ancient  the President of the United States,                  colonial façade of this classic edifice.  she carried plates of food with one
          art of bull slaughtering. On returning  Lyndon B. Johnson.                                  We paid six months’ rent in advance  hand and slapped away unwelcome
          to the capital, strumming our newly-    That night I invited Ricardo, the                   to Salvador, our landlord, who was so  hands of the patrons with the other.
          bought guitars to the amusement of  owner of a restaurant I frequented,                     desperate for money he would have       Rosita earned 20 pesos a day,
          bus passengers, Anne and I went our  to shake the hand that had graced the                  sold his grandmother for a ten pesos.  about  US$1.60.  Mechanics,  insur-
          separate ways.                       hand of the U.S. President. He took                    Salvador had the Hollywood looks  ance  salesmen,  office  workers  and
            Drawn by a crowd cheering loudly  my hand, studied it, turned it palm                     of a debonair star from the 1920s.  secret policemen made up the motley
          in the city centre I was jostled along  up as if to give me a reading and spat              A professional gigolo, disappearing  group of regular diners. On Rosita’s
          the sidewalk. A motorcade came into  in it. Words were not needed.                          occasionally  to  the  hunting  fields  rare nights off we would go to Plaza
          view. Standing head and shoulders       An  apartment  in  the  city  centre                of  Acapulco where rich American  Garibaldi to  listen  to  the distinct
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