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108                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                      THE RIVER OF LANTERNS                         109
































                   The cave we slept in at Los Cuevos, British Honduras.                               The bogged Landrover on the way to Belize. The Premier is on the right.


          stir  up  hostilities  over the  Anglo-  in search of the ruins I was unable                when the hermit, an American, left  dentist  intent  on telling  us about
          Guatemala boundary dispute.          to  find.  We  carried  a  message  for                his riverbank shelter of 14 years to  aliens he had seen in his garden. It
            David approved of my choice of  a village ahead telling  them of the                      give  speeches in the  village  square  was the Premier, George Cadle Price
          Sunshine accommodation and treat-    Governor’s  visit. Carrier pigeons                     about  ‘watchful  eyes’  and all the  himself. He was later to become
          ed himself to a Christmas present in  were unreliable lest they be eaten or                 time banging a tin drum. A diet of  Prime  Minister  when  the  country
          the shape of a beautiful mestizo girl  end up in the pot for a new cure at                  solitude  and bananas  must have   became       independent.     Driving
          for $12. My Christmas present was  the shaman’s house.                                      contributed to his derangement.      through the villages, Premier Price
          the arrival of funds and the relief of   A rainy night in a cave and a hike                    A mad-looking Austrian dentist  waved  regally  to  his  people  lining
          settling of my debt with ‘Madam’.    of 30 kilometres the next day took                     peering from beneath an oversized  the road as  David and I  threw  up
            We met the inventor of ‘Magical  us to the track leading to the buried                    pith  helmet,  and his equally  mad-  our lunch out the back.
          Realism’,  science  fiction’s  most  site of Caracol, dug out of the jungle                 looking wife, stopped to chat as we     The Landrover slid sideways into
          explicitly  literary  author,  Avram  years later to become the largest site                ate tortillas and beans. The only  a bogged patch of road and there it
          Davidson.  We didn’t realise  how  in the Mayan world.                                      dentist I have seen with front teeth  stayed  until  help  arrived from the
          explicitly  literary Avram  was until   We didn’t find it.                                  missing. Not the best advertisement  nearest village.
          years later.                            But we did find Brother Leon, a                     for a confident smile.                  The Premier merely shrugged his
            With bottles of  cheap rum  religious hermit with matted ginger                              A Landrover approached  and  shoulders and sat on the bank with
          stashed in our backpacks we set off   hair and beard. Locals were shocked                   we ran to flag it down to escape the  a thermos of tea.
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