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104  AN EXILE OF THE MIND        THE RIVER OF LANTERNS                        105


 situation. Without the means to
 make a cuppa I set off into the jungle
 following abandoned chiclero huts
 until the trail collided with a wall of
 trees. Chicleros extract sap from the
 tree of a sapodilla to make chewing
 gum. Unable to retrace my steps I
 tramped deeper into the maze.
 Squinting at the shafts of light
 bursting through the ceiling of green
 leaves in the early morning dawn,
 I could see dark shapes swinging
 Painting: Marcel Priest.  echoed around me. The large Howler
 from tree to tree. Loud guttural roars


 monkeys were not happy about me
 stealing  their  berries.  My  food  had


 Mountain lions are good climbers.   run out and I drank from creeks and   Wash day on the Mopan River.
 tentatively sampled a smorgasbord of
 monkey food.
 the shaman’s crow flies when it’s on   The  algae  in the  water  I drank,   jungle. Perhaps to keep me in mind  Guatemala border several times.
 the wing.   called  Arthrospira,  was a food   for the next day’s dinner.  With my backpack now heavy
 This site, hidden under the dense  source known to the early Maya. We   Several days later muffled voices  with cans of food, in case I got lost
 cloak of the jungle, was not to hear the  now know it as spirulina, which con-  could be heard in the distance. Sol-  again, the soldiers pointed the way
 scrape of an archaeologist’s trowel for  tains remarkable nutrients. I wasn’t   diers turned to stare open-mouthed  and  off  I  went  with  new  maps,  a
 another 20 years. I set off with survey  to know this at the time.  as I staggered into a clearing. A Brit-  compass,  boots  and  an  officer’s
 maps and restless enthusiasm at the   Walking  along a narrow  track  a   ish Army contingent, dropped into  bush jacket which I wore for many
 prospect of rediscovering a lost city.  mountain lion suddenly  appeared   the jungle on survival training, were  years. The cans had no labels  and
 Instead, I became lost myself in the  ahead  looking  for  a meal. Staring   about to have lunch. Good timing.   there was no way of knowing what
 vast expanse of the jungle.  into its eyes to show who was boss,   My bad manners were again on  they  contained. I  would  eat plum
 “Take a deep breath. Put on the  I inched towards the nearest tree to   display  by eating  anything edible  pudding for breakfast from one can
 kettle,  make yourself  a cup of tea  quickly climb it, unaware the  lion   within sight. To then  throw up  on  or pork sausage and beans from
 and relax.”   was a much better  climber than I   the forest floor. I had been walking  another.  My  surplus  army  rations
 This is what the survival manuals  was. I wasn’t on the menu and the   in circles  for several  weeks  and  were bartered in  the village for a
 advise when faced with a sticky  big  cat  casually  loped  off  into  the   unknowingly wandered  over the  ride back to the capital.
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