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102  AN EXILE OF THE MIND        THE RIVER OF LANTERNS                        103


 then to walk gloomily in the pouring  torrent. Returning by ferry was not
 rain to the ruins. The clammy night  possible and we crossed the river in a
 was spent  in the  leafy  shelter  of a  dory, a dugout canoe, which seemed
 thatched hut, windowless with two  even more treacherous.
 camp beds under mosquito netting.   On our way back to  Belize a
 From its  doorway  hung  a strip  of  shaman disclosed  his cure for
 cloth to keep out wild animals.  cancer. A crow boiled complete with
 The archaeologist talked nonstop  feathers and the liquid guzzled down
 about his life among the ruins. About  with a shot of rum. Warned not to
 dangerous mountain lions, snakes,  broadcast  this  remarkable  find  to
 scorpions and vampires. At long last   the world, I  told him a fortune
 I slid into a welcome sleep to be   could be made by selling  his
 jolted awake by a loud explosion.   formula to a pharmaceutical
 A lantern quickly lit revealed a   company.
 charred hole smoking in the   With my last dollar giv-
 commissioner’s mosquito   en to the shaman, I waited
 net. A snake had dropped   patiently  for the  bank  to
 from the bamboo ceiling   send my funds. My landla-
 onto the net and was dis-  dy or the ‘Madam’ as I now
 patched at point-blank   called her, kindly offered a
 range. The commissioner   loan of some illicit dollars
 hadn’t bothered to move   from her establishment.
 from the comfort of his bed   The  Pickwick Club, on
 and casually put his revolver   learning I wasn’t pimp
 back under his pillow.  material after all, invited me
 The  next  morning,  still  bleak  to afternoon tea where I showed my
 with  the  Stone  Woman’s  curse,  El  bad manners by scoffing most of the
 Castillo showed its head above the  cakes and five cups of tea.
 rubble and damp vegetation. Heavy   Despite  my dire  situation, the
 rain weakened our resolve to scritch  commissioner’s suggestion  to  visit
 away on the dig. With little funding  buried ruins  was tempting. Forty
 from government, many ruins would  kilometres south of Xunantunich as
 wait years to see the light of day. The
 swollen river was by now a raging   The ruins of Xunantunich today.
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