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104                     AN EXILE OF THE MIND                                                                      THE RIVER OF LANTERNS                         105


                                               situation. Without the means to
                                               make a cuppa I set off into the jungle
                                               following abandoned chiclero huts
                                               until the trail collided with a wall of
                                               trees. Chicleros extract sap from the
                                               tree of a sapodilla to make chewing
                                               gum. Unable to retrace my steps I
                                               tramped deeper into the maze.
                                                  Squinting at the shafts of light
                                               bursting through the ceiling of green
                                               leaves in the early morning dawn,
                                               I could see dark shapes swinging
         Painting: Marcel Priest.              echoed around me. The large Howler
                                               from tree to tree. Loud guttural roars


                                               monkeys were not happy about me
                                               stealing  their  berries.  My  food  had


          Mountain lions are good climbers.    run out and I drank from creeks and                                         Wash day on the Mopan River.
                                               tentatively sampled a smorgasbord of
                                               monkey food.
          the shaman’s crow flies when it’s on    The  algae  in the  water  I drank,                 jungle. Perhaps to keep me in mind  Guatemala border several times.
          the wing.                            called  Arthrospira,  was a food                       for the next day’s dinner.              With my backpack now heavy
            This site, hidden under the dense  source known to the early Maya. We                        Several days later muffled voices  with cans of food, in case I got lost
          cloak of the jungle, was not to hear the  now know it as spirulina, which con-              could be heard in the distance. Sol-  again, the soldiers pointed the way
          scrape of an archaeologist’s trowel for  tains remarkable nutrients. I wasn’t               diers turned to stare open-mouthed  and  off  I  went  with  new  maps,  a
          another 20 years. I set off with survey  to know this at the time.                          as I staggered into a clearing. A Brit-  compass,  boots  and  an  officer’s
          maps and restless enthusiasm at the     Walking  along a narrow  track  a                   ish Army contingent, dropped into  bush jacket which I wore for many
          prospect of rediscovering a lost city.  mountain lion suddenly  appeared                    the jungle on survival training, were  years. The cans had no labels  and
          Instead, I became lost myself in the  ahead  looking  for  a meal. Staring                  about to have lunch. Good timing.    there was no way of knowing what
          vast expanse of the jungle.          into its eyes to show who was boss,                       My bad manners were again on  they  contained. I  would  eat plum
            “Take a deep breath. Put on the  I inched towards the nearest tree to                     display  by eating  anything edible  pudding for breakfast from one can
          kettle,  make yourself  a cup of tea  quickly climb it, unaware the  lion                   within sight. To then  throw up  on  or pork sausage and beans from
          and relax.”                          was a much better  climber than I                      the forest floor. I had been walking  another.  My  surplus  army  rations
            This is what the survival manuals  was. I wasn’t on the menu and the                      in circles  for several  weeks  and  were bartered in  the village for a
          advise when faced with a sticky  big  cat  casually  loped  off  into  the                  unknowingly wandered  over the  ride back to the capital.
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