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136  AN EXILE OF THE MIND      MAGGIE, THE FLOWER CHILD                        137




























                       The Byzantine church on Paros dates back to 326.


           televised in Italy and getting a ride  packs in first and climb on top.
           was  a little  easier. Polizia tried    Such a relief to stroll through the
           to  confiscate  our  passports  as  we  watery lanes of Venice with not a car
           camped  in a disused  parking  lot  in sight and a boat to catch instead
           near the  River Po in  Piacenza. We  of a bus. Palaces of the Renaissance
           were  visiting my aunt’s sister  who  and the Gothic lined  the  canals of
           didn’t have a clue who I was. Under  this gently sinking city. We stayed
           cover of darkness we  sneaked  to  at Europe’s melting pot of itinerant
           the outskirts and woke up the next  travellers, the YHA with its million
           morning in a sheltery field of sheep.  dollar view.
              Hiking along miles of Italian road,   In the Adriatic port of Trieste we
           two girls in a tiny Fiat, smaller than  split up to make thumb travelling
           an English telephone box, pulled up  easier. I went by train to Zagreb in
           alongside us. Russell and I, both over  the  former Yugoslavia. To walk its
           six feet tall with oversized backpacks,  streets under mournful grey slabs of
           tried to pull in our packs on top of us  apartment blocks beneath a haunted
           with  no  success,  then  to  cram  our  sky,  and then on to  Belgrade with
                                                its reading rooms and art shops.
           Fisherman mending nets on Paros.     Outside of Skopje, the birthplace of
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